Protect foliage plants when temperatures drop
Q: During summer, we added a number of foliage plants to shady areas of our landscape. What should we do when it gets cold?
A: Most gardeners don’t like the really cold weather and neither do tropical-type foliage plants. Some, including pothos, weeping figs, dracaena and dieffenbachia, start to show cold damage when temperatures dip much below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Peace lilies, orchids, sansevieria, bromeliads and philodendrons can tolerate cooler temperatures but not freezing weather. They do not make growth at these temperatures and may be slow restarting come spring.
Prized foliage plants are best moved to warm locations when cold warnings are sounded. Foliage plants protected by trees and other overhead cover are often a few degrees warmer than the predicted lows and usually tolerate the cold better than plants more exposed to the weather. Often, a cover is all that is needed to entrap heat and keep the plants from frost or freezes.
Q: I have heard if you remove old flower heads on petunias, the plants bloom a lot longer but is a lot of work. Is this really that helpful?
A: Trimming to remove spent blooms sort of fool petunias and other flowering plants into feeling their work is not done. If you keep these plants from forming seed pods that follow the blooms, they continue to produce flowers much longer.
Removing faded flowers is a labor of love, as petunias can open many blooms as the plants grow larger and fill containers or beds. Take it from one who has done lots of trimming: You get tired of cutting off the declining blooms.
One trick you might try is waiting until stems of seed pods have formed with faded blooms at the ends and do severe trimming. Sometimes the plants rebound with lots of new shoots and blooms that continue for a few more months.
Q: Our lawn is not growing much, but many weeds are now above the grass blades. Can we apply a lawn herbicide at this time?
A: Herbicides can continue to be applied during warmish winter weather following label instructions for the products selected. Control is slower during the seasonally cool fall and winter months, but the products are normally effective. If temperatures are too cool, some weeds may escape control and have to be retreated during spring. Keep in mind that mowing is also a good winter
control technique, even if you are only removing the weeds.
Q: After planting my garden, I have lots of leftover vegetable seeds. Can I store them to replant the next garden?
A: Have you noticed that seeds are getting expensive? So, if you have leftovers, they are almost as good as gold and can be stored until the next sowing season. Place them in a plastic freezer bag or sealed container. Then add them to a storage area in the refrigerator. Do not put them in the freezer. Most seeds store well for a year or two with minimal drop in their ability to germinate when planted.
Q: I started a number of pineapple plants from tops of fruits. What care do plants in containers need during the winter?
A: Keep them from freezing. Pineapple plants can
experience temperatures down to 32 degrees Fahrenheit without major damage. Once they are subject to freezing, the leaves yellow and the plants decline. Perhaps it is best to move your pineapple plants to a warm spot when temperatures of 35 degrees Fahrenheit or below are expected. If they are out in the open, a blanket-type covering is often adequate protection from the cold.
Q: Each year, we have to make the decision whether to keep our poinsettia or toss it after the holidays. Most years, we are not successful. What is the best way to keep a poinsettia another year?
A: Enjoy your poinsettia into the new year by keeping the soil moist and moving it to a sunny, warm location. Starting in January, begin feedings with either a liquid fertilizer solution or a slow-release
product, following label instructions.
Around mid-March, give your poinsettia a larger container or add it to a sunny or filtered-sun garden site. Keep the soil moist and continue the feedings. At this time, cut the plant back to within 12 to 18 inches of the soil. Allow new growths to become 12 inches long, then remove about 4 inches from the tips of each major shoot.
Continue pruning after each foot of new growth through the end of August. Also, stay alert for mite, whitefly and caterpillar problems and control as needed. During mid-October, make sure the plant receives no nighttime light and your poinsettia should give a repeat performance for Christmas.
Q: I have two hanging ferns that make good growth but are a lightgreen color. Is there something I can do to make them greener?
A: Most likely the plants need a little fertilizer. Ferns are often forgotten when it comes to feedings. It won’t hurt to give them a winter fertilizer application, but don’t expect much regreening until the warmer weather.
Starting in March, feed the plants once or twice a month with a liquid fertilizer mixed at one-half the container garden rate. Continue the feedings through October to keep the ferns green. Display in filtered sun and avoid windy locations for best growth.