Orlando Sentinel

COCOA FRITTERS will sweeten your Hanukkah

- By Cheryl Sternman Rule | TheKitchn.com CHERYL STERNMAN RULE/TNS

Not to be rude, but there’s something a little scary about jelly donuts. It’s not the donut part. It’s not even the jelly part, to be frank. I just don’t like surprises in my sweets. Don’t ever hand me a box of chocolates without a very clear map of exactly what’s in there, and at which precise coordinate­s.

But let’s return to jelly donuts. got an alternativ­e: Let’s change As a Jew, I can assure you that the donut to a fritter-style cocoa Hanukkah can be a trying time for puff and save the jelly for our the jelly-donut-averse. morning toast.

Yes, the holiday is mostly about Fritters suit the spirit of the latkes, and dreidels, and menorahs, holiday since, like donuts, they’re and Maccabees, and lights, also fried, thus commemorat­ing and miracles, and togetherne­ss, the miracle of the oil that lasted but a small part of it is also about for eight nights. And with these jelly donuts. If you’re like me, I’ve fritters, there’s no hidden agenda, nothing hiding inside; what you see is what you get, and what you get is sweet, tender, cocoa-y and miraculous, because these really aren’t hard to make.

There are a few keys to a successful fritter. Use a deep pot, as oil tends to splatter. Fry a few at a time, so as not to overcrowd the cooking vessel. Use a thermomete­r (maintain a cooking temp of 375 degrees or thereabout­s). Drain on paper towels to absorb excess oil. And serve immediatel­y, dusting generously with powdered sugar and more cocoa. Fritters wait for no one, and no one should wait for fritters. (These tips, aside from the dusting part, are applicable to most frying applicatio­ns, including latkes.)

Yes, fritters are a bit nontraditi­onal, but traditions — and desserts — are allowed to evolve over time. Even in Israel, dessert and pastry offerings are pushing boundaries. I visited earlier this fall and was surprised by what I found, sweets-wise. In addition to classic French pastries (all manner of croissants, macarons and brioche) and Middle Eastern and Arab specialtie­s like baklava and kanafe (shredded dough with cheese and sweet syrup), I was served some unusual concoction­s: pistachio ice cream with

Fritters suit the spirit of the holiday since, like donuts, they’re also fried, thus commemorat­ing the miracle of the oil that lasted for eight nights. phyllo and candied eggplant, an almond milk flan with hibiscus and pomegranat­e, a kiwi-white chocolate truffle infused with jasmine tea.

Granted this was way before Hanukkah … they’ll probably be serving sufganiyot — OK, fine, that means jelly donut — this week, too, but that doesn’t mean I have to follow suit.

So grab a deep pot, a bottle of vegetable oil, two bowls, a whisk and a mesh strainer. Gather friends, light a menorah (or just some candles) and celebrate the cocoa fritter, a puffy sweet with nothing but itself lurking in the center. Happy Hanukkah!

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