A feeding program for Tabebuia tree blossoms
Q: I have two crotons next to each other damaged by cold. One dropped its leaves and is starting to regrow, while the other one kept its leaves. Is the one that kept its leaves dead?
A:
Plants that drop their leaves fairly soon after a freeze usually are ready to make new growth when consistently warm weather returns. Plants that keep dead leaves usually have a problem. Keeping the leaves tells us a growth process of forming an abscission layer that causes the leaves to drop did not occur, and at least that portion of the plant is dead. Scrape the stems of the croton with the dead leaves to determine where there may be green portions capable of growth. Trim the stems back to a few inches below these areas which may be near the ground.
Q: Several of my young citrus trees have produced good fruit but those on the navel are dry. Is the tree going to do better in future years?
A:
Keep your hopes high for this tree but it’s probably not going to be a good producer this year. It is not abnormal for young navel orange trees to produce dry portions within the fruits. This is a sign of an immature tree that needs a few more years to begin normal production. Your job is ensuring this navel tree has adequate water plus a citrus fertilizer in March, May, August and early October. Also, apply a minor nutrient spray at each flush of new growth. A spray to control the Asian psyllid is also needed when the new leaves are opening. Hopefully, this good care keeps the tree vigorous, free of greening disease and a good producer in future years.
Q: The yellow flowering tabebuias were beautiful this year, so we purchased and planted one in our yard. When can I begin the feedings?
A:
Nothing is more spectacular than a tabebuia loaded with yellow blooms. Actually, the pink ones are pretty nice too. So, let’s get you on a good care program. After planting wait four to six weeks and give your new tree a fertilizer application. Most come with some nutrients associated with their root balls so there is no rush to apply the first fertilizer application. Also, you are going to be watering every day for the first few weeks and every two to three days for several months. Any general landscape fertilizer should be fine or you can use one specially made for trees and shrubs. You might also consider a slow-release product that can feed the new tree for months. Scatter each over the root ball and a few feet beyond. A second feeding can be provided in late May which should be all that is needed for this year.
Q: I have an area where crabgrass died during the winter, and there is good St. Augustinegrass nearby. Will the St. Augustine creep over to fill this bare area?
A:
St. Augustine is a good turf type, but it cannot compete with the rapidly growing crabgrass. Chances are the crabgrass seeds have germinated, and new shoots are on their way to refilling the bare spots. Better delineate the crabgrass-affected area and remove what growth is present. Till the soil a few inches deep, then, fill this spot with fresh sod.
Q: We have two plumerias in containers we would like to plant in the ground. When is a good time? A:
Now is the time to add all plants to the landscape. Severe cold should be over, and what
little chill lies ahead should not bother the plumerias, also known as frangipani and Hawaiian lei plants. Locate these plants to a sunny location with adequate room to grow. Keep moist and fertilize shortly after planting and again in late May with a slow-release landscape fertilizer.
Q: Last year, we used organic soil to fill containers and grow our tomatoes. A white fuzzy growth formed on the soil surface that I scraped off. Do we need to prevent this from reoccurring?
A:
Organic soil mixtures provide plenty of matter for fungal organisms to grow. These are normally harmless and feed on decomposing organic matter. It might be good to disturb their growth as they could eventually form a barrier that impedes water movement into the soil. A light tilling of the surface soil or scraping to remove the covering is all that
is needed. We would not try to control these fungal growths with chemical treatments.
Q: Variegated flax lilies have developed into large clumps in my landscape beds. Can they be divided to make more, and how? A:
Dividing your huge clumps is a good way to save money and spread these white and greenbladed ground covers to other landscape areas. Simply dig a clump and either cut or pry smaller intact clusters of plants apart. It may take a little brute force but give it a try. Then, replant the new clumps 12 or so inches apart. Keep them moist and fertilize lightly in two to three weeks.
Q: When I replace the sod in the yard, I plan to kill the weeds and old grass. Then, do I need to remove the dead grass or can I lay the sod right over the top?
A: Better go by the rules for this costly and time-consuming project. University of Florida recommendations instruct gardeners to remove the old grass and then till the ground. You might get by with a firm raking that loosens the soil in very sandy or tree root-filled soils. Then check the soil acidity and adjust the pH to around 6.5 for best growth. Thoroughly wet the soil, and you are ready to lay the sod. Note that a fertilizer application is usually not part of pre-plant soil preparation. A lawn product is applied three to four weeks after the new grass is installed.