Growing more amaryllis from seeds takes time, effort
Q: My amaryllis are blooming and forming seed heads. Do I cut them off or let the seeds form?
A:
Decide whether or not you want to grow more amaryllis. Those heads are full of wafer-shaped seed-bearing portions. Many could germinate and produce plants that need about three years to flower. If you want to grow more, scatter the seeds over a tray of soil and cover lightly. Keep moist, and they should germinate in about two weeks. Time is then spent transplanting the small seedlings and growing them on to form flowering bulbs. If you do not want this experience, cut off the seed head forming stalks down among the foliage and let the energy go into forming larger bulbs.
Q: A friend gave me some Eucharis lily bulbs that are supposed to flower during the winter. Where are these best planted?
A:
Share a stalk of blooms from this plant with friends, and they might think you are growing narcissus. But what is in bloom sometime between December and February is the Eucharis or Amazon lily. The flowers are large, pure white and several to a stalk. This plant wants the shade of lightly filtered sun to be successful. The plants yellow and decline growing when exposed to too much sun. As the bulbs multiply, the bed expands, and more flowers are produced each year. One added feature is the large leaves that resemble those of hostas. The leaves are deep green and present year-round.
Q: This was not the best year for Brussels sprouts. The buds we normally harvest were small and very bitter tasting. What went wrong?
A:
Blame the unusually warm to hot winter weather on this year’s poorer quality Brussels sprouts. When the weather becomes too hot for these plants, the plump buds
that are harvested become very bitter and have a tangy taste. Locally, many years have resulted in similar disappointing yields from these plants. Only if they grow under consistently cool conditions do the plants yield the flavorful Brussels sprouts we love.
Q: Weeds are growing faster than my St. Augustine grass. Do I use a liquid weed control or a weedand-feed product?
A:
Weed-and-feed lawn products can do a great job of controlling many of the weeds in home lawns. They are easy to use but follow labels carefully, as some are best applied when lawns are moist. Also, weed-andfeeds may only contain one herbicide which could limit their ability to control some of the weeds. Liquids for lawn use often contain
several different herbicides that may control broadleaf and sedge-type weeds. If you have applied a weedand-feed or want a broader spectrum of weed control, a liquid made for your lawn type may be a good choice. Do note all application instructions. Some may say for use with St. Augustine lawns but exclude some varieties of this grass, like Floratam.
Q: I am thinking of replacing my declining St. Augustine lawn with zoysiagrass. Will this make a good home lawn?
A:
Do your reading on zoysia grass, a turf type that has become popular in recent years for home lawns. Obtain a bulletin on the types of zoysia and their needs from your local University of Florida Extension Office. It is
a great foot-tickling, finebladed grass but has very specific needs. It is not pest or disease free and could have weeds. Zoysia is drought tolerant but is the first of the grasses to turn brown if not watered like all the other types of turf. It will also likely need thatch removal after a few years of growth. Zoysia can make a good home lawn, but St. Augustine is still the best choice for many residents.
Q: I have an old sea grape hedge that turned light brown during winter, and I don’t see any sign of new growth. Should it be showing signs of growth by now?
A:
Most likely, the cold has heavily damaged your sea grape and may be dead to the ground. Do a simple test of scraping the outer bark to see if there is any
green under the stems. If you find brown near the top, keep going down the stems as far as needed until you find green. In some cases, this may be among the stems near the soil line that were more insulated from the cold. Then, prune out the dead portions and wait for new shoots to regrow the plants.
Q: We have large azalea bushes that need pruning. When is the proper time to cut them back and apply fertilizer?
A:
Let the pruning begin as soon as these azaleas finish their spring flower displays. Some may continue to flicker a few blooms until late in the season, but major pruning should be completed by early June when azaleas begin to form their flower buds for next year. Pruning
includes removing up to one-third of the older wood from the larger growing varieties. Also, remove all dead or declining stems. This opens the plants up and allows vigorous new shoots to begin growth. Then you can concentrate on reducing the height and width as needed. Azaleas look their best with three to four feedings a year. Apply an azalea-camellia product or general landscape fertilizer once in March, May, August (if permitted) and October when needed to encourage growth and maintain a green color. Slow-release products are recommended following label instructions.