Crape myrtles tolerate all sorts of pruning
Question: Crape myrtles are both heavily pruned and not pruned in our neighborhood. What is correct? Answer:
Most horticulturists do not prune their crape myrtles or do what is called pencil pruning. This later pruning removes the old seed heads and thin stems at the end of shoots back to portions about the diameter of a pencil. But as you noted, some crape myrtles are cut way back to stubs often called knuckles. This later severe pruning of the stems is often called pollarding. Fortunately crape myrtles tolerate all forms of pruning. Horticulturists usually like to leave their shrubs and tree forms with the natural look by providing minimal pruning. This trimming removes thin and crisscrossing stems. Shoots from the base of the plants are also removed. Severe pruning concentrates new growth at the end of the knuckles that are sometime weakly attached and break off during storms. It also concentrates the flower clusters but does not increase the over all flower potential of shrubs or tree forms. You can have crape myrtles your way but less pruning is considered best.
Q: I have several recently purchased cyclamens that are in bloom. How long will they last and what care is needed? A:
Cyclamens are better than bouquets as the blooms keep opening for a few months. Keep the plants in a bright location but out of full sun after midmorning. Keep moist and growth should continue into early summer. Gradually the plants, which are growing from bulb like portions called tubers, decline. At this time keep them barely moist and growth should begin again during fall. The plants can be kept with other foliage in the home or on a porch. Don’t let them become wet when dormant or the bulbs rot. The plants may flower again next spring but many decline due to our hot, humid weather and never recover.
Q: We have several large poinsettias in our garden that still have their attractive red bracts. It’s noted they should be pruned back at this time but I hate to destroy the color. Should I cut them back anyway?
A:
Enjoy the colorful poinsettias as long as you like. Gradually the plants are going to enter a growth phase and the red bracts drop from the plants. This may occur in April or May. When the bracts are being lost and the plants are no longer as attractive, give them the needed pruning. Most large poinsettias are pruned down about one-half and thinned out a little. New growth should follow and with some occasional pruning needed to produce renewed plants for the holidays. Keep the soil moist and apply a slow-release fertilizer at the shrub rate as instructed on the label.
Q: A gift from my son of a plumeria is growing in a window with green leaves that are developing white spots. Another plumeria outside has yellowing leaves. Both are dropping leaves. What are the problems? A:
Start this recovery by moving the in-home plumeria, also known as frangipani, outdoors to have a higher light location. Also, this plant has what appears to be mites on the foliage causing the white appearance. While outside in a full to filtered sun location, use a strong stream of water to wash off the leaves. Also, apply an insecticidal soap. Yellow leaves on the plumeria already outdoors may be normal as these shrubs and tree forms lose their foliage during winter. Your plant also has the rust fungus on the leaves as noted in an included email photo. Allow the leaves to drop and collect them to add to the trash to eliminate as much of the fungal spores as possible. Keep both plants moist and apply a shrub fertilizer now and in May and early October. Also keep a fungicide handy to control rust when noted usually around the start of the rainy season. A number of rust control products are available at garden centers to apply as needed following label instructions.
Q: My avocado tree is full of blooms but dropping leaves. Why is there a heavy leaf drop? A:
Most likely your tree is normal. Spring leaf drop can be heavy and occurs about the time of flowering. New leaves should quickly fill the stems as growth resumes. Keep the soil moist during dry times and apply a citrus avocado fertilizer now, during May, August and early October. Use the rates recommended on the product label.
Q: I am planning a new bahia lawn. Should I lay the new sod now or wait for even warmer weather?
A:
Southern lawns won’t make a lot of growth until the consistently warm weather but that should not delay sod installation. As long as the grass is otherwise healthy you can install a new lawn at anytime of the year. Even a seemingly dormant grass starts to make root growth during the cooler months. Your new bahia grass should make quick growth during the 70- and 80- degree Fahrenheit weather ahead. So let the sodding begin.