Sour­ing on reg­u­lar beer

Pasatiempo - - AMUSE-BOUCHE - by Lau­rel Glad­den

At some point or another, ev­ery­thing old is new again. In the last decade, we’ve seen Brus­sels sprouts and tater tots soar back into the lime­light, and while beers made with wild yeasts (par­tic­u­larly Bret­tanomyces) or by spon­ta­neous fer­men­ta­tion were once as com­mon as Bud­weiser in the Old World, they’ve been the dar­lings of beer nerds state­side for at least half a decade. Now, they’re see­ing a resur­gence around the zy­mur­gy­log­i­cal world. (This could be yet another point in what for­mer Food & Wine ed­i­tor Dana Cowin has called the “Im­pres­sion­ist paint­ing” of the fer­men­ta­tion food trend, which also brought new and new­found pop­u­lar­ity for ev­ery­thing from pickles and sauer­kraut to kim­chi and kom­bucha.) Ear­lier this decade, brewmeis­ters such as Ron Gans­berg of Port­land’s Cas­cade Brew­ing be­gan tin­ker­ing with sour and wild beers — an um­brella that can cover a num­ber of pop­u­lar styles with rec­og­niz­able monikers like farm­house, sai­son, lam­bic, Ber­liner weisse, and gose, among oth­ers. Now they’re show­ing up in bot­tles, glasses, and growlers across Santa Fe. Some venues serve beers brewed else­where — Fire & Hops (222 N. Guadalupe St.) taps the An­niver­sary Sai­son from Albuquerque’s La Cum­bre Brew­ing, and even Cowgirl BBQ (319 S. Guadalupe St.) makes room on their tap list for O’Dell Brew­ing’s black­berry gose. But lo­cal brew­eries are now cre­at­ing their own, too. Sec­ond

Street Brew­ery (1814 2nd St. and 1607 Paseo de Per­alta) oc­ca­sion­ally of­fers a re­fresh­ing Bel­gian farm­house-style ale called Joie de la Sai­son, and Santa Fe Brew­ing Com­pany’s (35 Fire Place) Los In­no­vadores — a kriek and a sin­gle-bar­rel gueuze — are lim­ited-quan­tity bar­rel-aged sour beers made with au­tochthonous yeast. Duel Brew­ing (1228-D Park­way Drive) serves a num­ber of sours and saisons, and of the dozens of beers on of­fer at Row­ley

Farm­house Ales (1405 Ma­clovia St.), many are sours of some sort — ei­ther house-brewed or hail­ing from lo­cales from Ft. Collins, Colorado, to Switzer­land.

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