Opuntia; The Book of Greens

OPUNTIA

puntia, the scientific name for the prickly-pear cactus, has spines so sharp that the plant can be used to fence cows. But neither cows nor spines are in evidence at the new Opuntia café in the Railyard. Tucked away in an attractive industrial-modern, multipurpose building, the fledgling teahouse’s glass walls bring summer into winter in a bright, greenhouse-like setting. It’s a blend of the interests of Todd Spitzer — a founding partner of Iconik Coffee Roasters and co-owner of Sky Coffee — and plant maven Jeanna Gienke, with a menu designed by consulting chef Kim Muller, whose Santa Fe credentials include stints at The Compound and Izanami. The small café is a welcome addition to the Railyard’s re-energized Baca Street neighborhood, and is as much a community gathering place as a restaurant.

Although it is co-owned by a man who made his Santa Fe name with coffee, Opuntia showcases a carefully curated selection of black, green, white, pu-erh, and oolong teas, along with an assortment of herbal infusions for those who prefer to avoid caffeine altogether. Spigots at the counter allow each type of tea to steep at both the optimum temperature and length of time to bring out its best characteristics, with the leaves removed from the pot before the brew comes to table in order to prevent the bitter brackishness that results from oversteeping.

The teas and infusions we sampled establish Opuntia as a serious teahouse: The Turmeric Gold (with tasting notes of “turmeric, earth, ginger”) and Green Jasmine (“sweet jasmine flowers, cocoa, clover”) were clean, pure examples of their type, with no perfumy, artificial flavor enhancements. The Iron Goddess of Mercy, a favorite mellow, golden oolong that is hard to find by the cup, did indeed deliver hints of “caramel, shiitake mushroom, and roasted chicory.” But the surprise treat of a Sunday afternoon was Maiden’s Ecstacy, a pu-erh blend. Dried, oxidized, fermented, and aged, pu-erh can smell like cat urine and taste like dirt. But the “earth” in this cup is neither bitter nor smoky. Smooth and sweet, the rich, dark brown color, reminiscent of coffee, lived up to the Chinese categorization of pu-erh as a dark or black tea.

Opuntia’s limited menu is healthy-ish and based on fresh ingredients. The tiny kitchen offers two cereals, four toasts, two grain bowls, two salads and two sandwiches in the regular rotation — and you can put an egg on all of it. Daily specials — usually two soups, two quiches, and a grain bowl or sandwich — expand the choices for repeat customers.

The avocado toast is a simple, well-rendered version of the Instagram darling: creamy chunks of ripe (not overripe) avocado play well with crisp, thinly sliced radishes, bitter arugula, and a lemony aioli atop a slice of lightly toasted bread — a great choice if you’re not too hungry. The mushroom tartine is heartier, with a sizeable pile of nicely browned, garlic-scented mushrooms heaped over sautéed greens, the whole generously sprinkled with grated Reggiano cheese.

The bacon quiche, a daily special that seems to make frequent appearances on the menu, is creamy and well seasoned, with a notably flaky crust and a crisp strip of bacon sitting on the top of the wedge. Sided with arugula — the salad green found everywhere on the menu — and thinly sliced cucumbers dressed with a light, lemony vinaigrette, it satisfies without being overly filling.

Opuntia

922 Shoofly St., no phone number www.opuntia.cafe Breakfast, lunch, and beverages 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily; kitchen closes at 4 p.m. Takeout available Vegetarian and vegan options No alcohol (beer and wine coming soon) Handicapped accessible Sheltered outdoor tables, patio to come in season Noise level: Wide range, from quiet enough to hear the plants grow to loud background buzz, depending on time of day, size of crowd, and where you are seated Credit cards, no checks

The Short Order

Occupying a sunlit slice of a multipurpose industrialmodern building in the Railyard, Opuntia rings more West Coast than Southwest, bringing a plant-filled ‘70s vibe to a sparse, thoroughly contemporary space. The overall effect is both energizing and relaxing — a benefit, perhaps, of all that plant-produced oxygen filling the room. Open for only a few months, the café-greenhouse is well on its way to becoming a neighborhood mainstay. The teas and infusions, while pricey, are stellar examples of their type — they all deliver on their promise, especially the pu-erh called Maiden’s Ecstacy. Recommended: mushroom soup, bacon quiche, avocado tartine, Turkish chicken salad, and grilled cheese; the lamb sandwich whenever it appears on the menu; and the cardamom rice pudding.

The soups change regularly, if not daily. On one afternoon, the thick, smooth mushroom soup tasted only of mushrooms — a good thing. On another visit, the brothy black bean soup was nicely seasoned with bits of celery, onion, tomato, and a healthy shake of cumin.

Good cheese and good bread from Sage Bakehouse are the stars of Opuntia’s small but delicious grilled cheese sandwich. The blend of aged Swiss Gruyère and tangy fontal cheeses, set off with a layer of caramelized onions and a swipe of whole grain mustard, is simultaneously creamy, gooey, sweet, and biting. The Turkish chicken salad combines chunks of the bird with walnuts, celery, onion, watercress, arugula and a walnut-tahini dressing to produce a moist and tasty sandwich. The lightly toasted bread, spread end to end with lemon aioli, was so good that my normally carb-avoiding companion ate every crumb. But it was a daily special that won our hearts, stuffing three cuminscented North African-style lamb meatballs — fragrant with herbs and spices — into a very fresh, fluffy pita, along with sautéed onions, strips of cucumber and roasted red pepper, arugula, and bits of salty feta cheese.

Although it has only been open for a few months, Opuntia has clearly found place in the heart of its community.

There are only two sweets on Opuntia’s menu — cardamom rice pudding and chocolate truffles from Kakawa Chocolate House — and no additions are needed. Glistening with coconut milk and heavy cream, the not-so-sweet fat grains of rice (perhaps soaked before cooking) are variously topped with candied dried apricots, apples, cranberries, and raisins, the whole dusted with cinnamon. We ordered a bowl to share — and then another bowl to take home.

Although it has only been open for a few months, Opuntia has clearly found a place in the heart of its community. It is calm, comfortable, and never empty. A simple café in many ways, it also dances on the edge of the “shoppable restaurant” trend, selling not only food and drink, but also the cups, bowls, and plates on which they are served. All the plants on display are for sale, too, along with the lovely, silvery metal pots in which they sit.

Evening pop-ups hosted by local chefs are coming soon. To keep up with it all, visit Opuntia’s website, Instagram, or Facebook page and get yourself on its new email list.