Pancho’s Gourmet To Go; Pig + Fig’s caramel piñon tart
PANCHO’S GOURMET TO GO
ANimportant thing to understand when you visit Pancho’s Gourmet To Go is that Pancho isn’t kidding about the “to go” part. The core of the operation is a small kitchen tucked inside a neat, well-kept Shell station in the tiny town of Pecos. There’s no seating inside and not much outside, either: a couple of wide, plain benches that face the gas pumps. The food comes in Styrofoam containers or wrapped in foil, and the forks, spoons, and knives are made of bendy white plastic. Once you’re handed the goods — which you order at the same counter where you pay for gas, Slim Jims, chainsaw oil, and whatever else — your best bet is to either tailgate or drive someplace. You’re in Pecos, after all, so you’re not far from many excellent picnic spots. If it’s too cold, park your vehicle and enjoy some road food that is definitely a cut above average.
I first heard about Pancho’s a few winters ago from my friend Dave, an avid outdoorsman who lives near Glorieta, and who, like me, enjoys finding offbeat places to eat that seem unique to Northern New Mexico. I’d been in Pecos dozens of times over the years — before and after outings to hike, fish, snowshoe, cut Christmas trees, or gather firewood — and somehow I didn’t know there was a gas station in town with a foodie vibe. Dave decreed that Pancho’s serves the best breakfast burrito in the Santa Fe area, and he gave me half of the one he bought to prove it.
The burrito made a convincing case for Dave’s grandiose statement. Labeled the Big Big Breakfast Burrito on Pancho’s big menu, it consisted of hot (but not too hot) red chile, excellent pinto beans, and ample melted cheese (jack and cheddar) wrapped inside a big, warm flour tortilla. He ordered a handheld version, and all that sloppy, tasty stuff stayed together surprisingly well once you cut into it. Is it the best burrito around? I have no idea, but eating one of these is certainly a good way to start an active day.
Pancho’s was opened in 1999 by Frank “Pancho” Adelo, who developed the menu himself, aiming for