There really is nothing quite like the Lowcountry, South Carolina’s landscape of vast saltmarsh, punctuated by islands of moss-festooned live oaks and pines.
STEAMBOAT CREEK Between Charleston and Beaufort, three attractive anchorages are clustered within a few miles. If you prefer shore access, then Steamboat Creek (STM 496.7 at 32°36.63N 80°16.77W) trumps nearby Toogoodoo Creek as well as its neighbor, Tom Point Creek (STM 495.5).
Steamboat Creek, along Edisto Island, has reasonably good all-around protection except in strong northeasters, and it is a bit wider than nearby Toogoodoo Creek or Tom Point Creek. All three anchorages are scenic, but Steamboat Creek, with its discreet waterfront homes, has a public boat ramp with a small floating dock and fishing pier. Realize of course that boat ramps near anchorages are a mixed blessing—great for exercise walks or taking Fido ashore, but with more weekend boat traffic to interrupt an otherwise serene setting.
LADY’S ISLAND MARINA The enchanting town of Beaufort (pronounced Bew-furt) is a must-see for every cruiser. However, the downtown docks are famous for their current and their nighttime music. Lady’s Island, located on the other side of the town’s bascule bridge, is quieter, has more utilitarian services, yet it’s still within a viable walk to Beaufort’s upscale restaurant and historic district.
Lady’s Island Marina (STM 535.9 at 32°25.15N 80°39.47W) is the play here, a cruiser-friendly marina managed by an on-site liveaboard couple. At $1.25/foot it’s a very good deal for this area. The laundry is no longer free, but you have use of a huge tool-equipped workshop and loaner bikes, and are within a short walk of two supermarkets, banks, a bakery, liquor and hardware store, as well as numerous inexpensive eateries.
For those who prefer to anchor, just past the marina is Factory Creek’s east anchorage (STM 535.9 at 32°25.27N 80°39.10W). After a short row to the marina, you’re welcome to leave your dinghy to access the nearby services, or for a nominal fee use their facilities. Despite the name, presumably referring to a long-gone oyster factory, Factory Creek is a scenic anchorage among waterfront homes, extensive saltmarsh, and oyster flats.
If you’re at Lady’s Island on Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday, and are up for a discount culinary adventure, try the Fillin’ Station overlooking the westernmost docks. As the newspaper review recently warned, “Don’t let the outside scare you.” The dirty-biker bar look is intentional, supposedly to keep it off the radar of commuting Fripp
In the next installment, Mark and Diana Doyle look at frugal faves through Georgia. The cruising couple manages On the Water ChartGuides Foundation, offering “almost free” cruising and anchoring guides for the Intracoastal Waterway. Visit them at
for more information.
www.onthewaterchartguides.org