“Buenas tardes.”
STORY & PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM LESHAW & FAMILY
Those were the first words we heard as our 34-foot PDQ powercat, Thing 1 Thing 2, was greeted by the Tropas Guarda Fronteras upon our arrival to Marina Hemingway on the outskirts of Havana. My crew consisted of my sons, Nico (16) and Andy (14), and my wife, Cuqui, and we were ready to explore all the island had to offer.
Nautical charts do not accurately reflect the distance between Key West and Havana. I’m not referring to the 90 linear miles that separate the two cities, but to the regulatory hurdles that must be overcome before making this otherwise straightforward trip. On the U.S. side, Coast Guard permits, Office of Foreign Asset Control licenses, and Bureau of Industry and Shipping permits must be obtained before undertaking a Cuban cruise. To add to the bureaucratic fog, many insurance companies will not cover you or your boat while in Cuba, many U.S. communications devices will not work, and, unless you make your own potable water, water needs to be purified before being put into your tank—and so on. The journey, however, is well worth the hassle.
Cuba is a country of startling contrasts, starting with capital city Havana and its anachronistic 1950s-era cars and tourist-friendly attitudes. The Cuban countryside is another matter, however, where tourists rarely venture and the need for a despacho (official permission) before going ashore or making/breaking an anchorage is required at all times. Cruising Cuba is like combining two trips in one: There is the culture, history, and intrigue of Cuba, with the near-Hollywood romance of Havana, beautiful Caribbean water, and pristine beaches. Then there are the uninhabited islands and stretches you would expect to find in the most remote Bahamian out-islands.
Our original plan had been to spend a few days in Marina Hemingway, then cruise west along the north coast to Cabo San Antonio and continue on to Maria la Gorda at the western tip. After that we would steam to Isla Juventud to see at least a piece of the south side of the island. There was so much to see and do, that we ultimately had to make the decision at Maria la Gorda to return to Florida via the Dry Tortugas.
CLEARING MARINA HEMINGWAY We left Key West at about 0530 in 15-knot winds. After clearing the channel, we turned Thing 1 Thing 2’ s bow to 209° for the 96-mile run to Marina Hemingway. Unlike a trip to the Bahamas where sightings of other vessels are both inevitable and common, we encountered only a single pleasure boat and a smattering of cargo ships, most of which appeared to be heading west of Cuba. The isolation of the Florida Straits seemed a good metaphor for the historically strained relationship between the United States and Cuba.
We saw the outline of Havana from about 14 miles away. At 12 miles, we radioed Marina Hemingway to advise them of our entry into Cuban waters. No response. We continued on and radioed again on Channel 16 to advise of our arrival as we entered the channel. This time they responded promptly and professionally in perfect English. The voice on the radio directed us to the Guarda Fronteras dock where two uniformed soldiers helped us tie up along the sea wall. They were pleasant and friendly, which we would soon learn to be a recurring theme.
As the procession began, the first person to board was a doctor. He was just as polite and professional as the border guards as he asked questions, took our temperatures, filled out paperwork, and departed. Next up were two soldiers who looked at our passports and documentation, and took an inventory of our electronics and machinery. How many engines do you have? Model and horsepower? Outboard motors and dinghies? How many VHF radios? Fixed or portable? GPS? Satellite communications equipment? After filling out the paperwork, they asked us to go into an office where they took our pictures and scanned our passports. We were then given our official despacho, which permitted us to formally enter Cuba via Marina Hemingway.
We were told that we would need to present the despacho to obtain another despacho, which authorized our removal of the boat from the marina once we decided to leave. We would learn that this process would repeat itself each time we moved the boat, including remote anchorages where a member of the Guarda Fronteras would eerily learn of our arrival and show up in a commandeered fishing boat—complete with a fisherman or two—to assist with the operation.
After completion of these formalities, we were told we would be given a dock assignment after the dockmaster finished his lunch. Upon arrival in our assigned space along the seawall (there are no slips), we were greeted by the dockmaster and electrician, who hooked up our shore power. Next were two agricultural inspectors who gave us a piece of paper outlining customs import regulations—what can and cannot be brought into the country. For example, no fresh eggs are allowed, but liquid eggs are okay. No fresh chicken, but frozen is fine.
When they were finished, they explained that we were permitted to tip them at “no obligation.” Having just arrived in Cuba, I was not sure whether it was safe to tip a government official. I held out one CUC (Cuban Convertible Currency worth the equivalent of $1USD) but requested a receipt before releasing the money. After an awkward moment in which I had apparently insulted the inspectors by offering them local currency, they declined the offer and informed me that they also accept American dollars. This, after the other people who boarded the boat had declined to accept even a cold soda. Total time for the whole process was about an hour, so no harm done in the grand scheme. Other than the dockmaster, it came as no surprise that very little English was spoken. My wife, who grew up in Colombia, and both our boys speak Spanish, which helped immeasurably during our trip.
Marina Hemingway is one of only six official entry points through which all foreign pleasure boats must pass upon entering the country. Located about nine miles west of Havana, Marina Hemingway consists of four parallel canals (Canals 1 through 4) with concrete seawalls at the top and large rocks protruding from the bottom. The boats in the marina included a variety of power and sail boats, ranging from about 35 feet into the 150foot range. Hailing ports included the United States, Canada, and Europe, as well as flags of convenience on some of the larger yachts. Cuban boats are not allowed in Marina Hemingway. The only exception was a small speedboat with a 55-gallon drum strapped to the bow, which had returned after an apparently failed one-way trip to Florida.
FIRST NIGHT After tying up and getting situated, we went to one of the bars inside the marina where I had my first Cuban beer—a Buccanero. It cost $1. Looking over the bar menu I saw that the cost of locally distilled rum ranged anywhere from $0.50 to $1.
The next stop was a short walk to Jaimanitas, a small town near the marina. We asked a local for a dining recommendation and were directed through a series of alleys and small streets to Restaurante Santi, a good-size restaurant overlooking a small “marina” that housed the local fishing fleet. Boats here ranged from 12 to 25 feet, some of which had motors but many did not. The restaurant specialized in seafood, so we ordered ceviche, jamon de pez (mashed fish with the distinct taste of SPAM), and a piece of grilled fish. Also on the menu was sushi, sashimi, and stone crabs. Dinner for four, including beer and wine, came to $51.
TO HAVANA The next morning we had breakfast aboard Thing 1 Thing 2 and walked to Avenida Quinta, the main street just outside the Marina, and waved down a 1955 Chevy, already carrying a single passenger, for our ride to Old Havana. The old section of Havana is full of beautiful buildings which, for the most part, have not been painted or maintained since the late 50s. The people were friendly and directed us to the various sites or suggested alternative attractions or routes. I noticed that unlike many of the other Caribbean islands we visited over the years, the locals generally sported a full set of teeth, a tribute to Cuba’s wellregarded universal healthcare system. Maps of Havana are not