PASTA WITH ABRUZZI-STYLE LAMB SAUCE

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This rich pasta sauce is typical of the Abbruzzo region, where lamb is plentiful, especially in the spring. You can use it on any pasta, but it is typically served on egg fettucine or gnocchi. (I used tubeshaped penne rigate.) Serve with plenty of pecorinoRomano cheese, which is made from sheep’s milk and adds a sharp and salty flavor. My friend Josephine Coletti, who gave me the recipe, suggests Locatelli pecorino. “It’s the best,” she says.

½ cup olive oil ½ small yellow onion, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, crushed ¾ to 1 pound boneless lamb, diced finely

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper 2 to 3 bay leaves 1 small sprig rosemary, ½ cup dry red or white wine

1 quart Italian plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano), coarsely chopped, with their juices

1½ tablespoons coarse salt

1 pound penne or maccheroncini

⅓ cup freshly grated pecorino-Romano cheese, plus more for serving

In heavy pan, heat oil over moderately high heat. Add onion and saute, stirring frequently, until the onion is pale gold.

Add garlic and continue cooking for 1 minute.

Add lamb (and the bone, if you have it) and brown well, about, 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and stir. Add bay leaves and rosemary.

Add wine and simmer until evaporated, 10 minutes. Add tomatoes, partially cover and cook 30 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the fat begins to separate from the sauce. Allow sauce to rest for a few minutes before serving. Remove any bones.

Meanwhile, fill a large pot with 4 quarts of water and bring to a boil. Add coarse salt, cover and return to a boil. Add pasta and stir rapidly with a wooden spoon. Cover and bring back to a boil. Uncover and cook the pasta, stirring frequently, until it’s al dente. Drain pasta and immediately transfer it to a warmed bowl. Toss with the lamb sauce and ⅓ cup of grated cheese. Serve at once, passing additional cheese at the table. Serves 4 to 6.