GLOVES OFF IN THE GALLEYS
SMALLMAN VS. FEDERAL SHAPE UP FOR A SHOWDOWN
With apologies to Michael Buffer, let’s get ready to gobbbble!
In a face-off between Smallman Galley and Federal Galley — both from Tyler Benson and Benjamin Mantica — which food hall would win? We’ve been tossing around the question in between visits to the pioneering food hall in the Strip District that opened in 2015 and its newer sibling that debuted a few months ago on the North Side. Along the way we’ve sampled bites of Detroit-style pizzas, pork tacos, beet salads and fancied-up s’mores.
By rolling out these spots, the newly formed Galley Group has capitalized on a trend that has proliferated in other cities, having researched what’s worked and what hasn’tfrom New York to Portland, Ore.
How’s a food hall different from an oldschool food court? It’s outfitted with food stalls from small local purveyors, and it’s usually freestanding, unlike food courts of yore in the mall with chains such as Orange Julius and Arby’s. If there’s anything that would be essential in today’s food hall, it would have to be the booze. Bars are often the centerpieces (with profits going to the house, not the purveyors).
While Smallman and Federal are Pittsburgh’s first, they’re certainly not the last: Following the Galley Group spots, Oxford Market will open in Downtown in February, and the Pennsylvania Market from Anthony DiCio is slated to open in the Strip District by spring.
We’ve divvied up who does what best, to try and pick a winner. Read on for the skinny:
A space tucked away with outdoor potential or a room with a packed bar outfitted with charming nooks to dine? Smallman vs. Federal Galley
Melissa McCart: As far as spaces go, my preference is the 5,000-square-foot Federal Galley, which also shows that the duo clearly had more money to work with backed by Faros Properties. I like the design details like the lighting and the garage doors, as well as the long bench for hanging out. The space offers a fishbowl area as well as more intimate spaces with nooks behind the bar. I’m looking forward to the warm weather when the space rolls out the outdoor seating.
Dan Gigler, aka Munch: I hated the Federal Galley space on my first visit: High ceilings, a full house and terrible music made the noise level downright agitating. It has since grown on me, but huge swaths of stark and cold white walls desperately need a bolt of color, be it artwork or photography. There is, however, much more room to move, and when our tundra eventually thaws, the patio space is going to be a massive hit. For now, I’ll stick with the smaller confines of Smallman Galley, which is a bit cozier and intimate and a little bit easier to watcheach kitchen staff at work.
Who has the happier happy hour? Themed cocktails at Smallman from Matt Zelinsky vs. classic cocktails at Federal Galley from Cat Cannon
MM: I like the drink selection at Smallman from Mr. Zelinsky, who has assembled a menu of themed cocktails that often switch up (although I’m also a fan of Cat Cannon’s classic cocktails at Federal). Another point for Smallman: Because I’m more of a wine drinker, I like that Smallman offers selection, while Federal serves a house red, white, rose and sparkling. As for beers, with Smallman serving local craft brews and Federal expanding to national selections, I’m happy with both.
When it comes to space, Federal is the clear winner. At Smallman, the bar area feels a little jammed up, especially at peak happy hour when the bar-height chairs from the bar hit the backs of chairs from the communal table. There’s little room for walking between them, and the space can feel pretty overwhelmingly loud at peak. The bar at Federal allows for plenty of legroom and space to walk around. And the bar is a more crowd-pleasing focal point, especially because it used to be a safe. Check out the door.
Good-to-know facts: All booze is half off for happy hours at both locations — that’s all wine, beer and cocktails. The Smallman happy hour is from 5 to 7 p.m. while the one at Federal runs from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. at the moment.
MUNCH: I can’t disagree with what my colleague says vis-à-vis the hooch: The beer and liquor options are well curated, and the respective cocktail menus at each are thoughtful, creative and fun, not unlike the bar staffs that mix them. That the Federal bar is literally carved out of an old bank vault is incredibly cool. But it’s also too brightly lit and, like the rest of the space, cold — I like my bars darker, warmer and cozier. Advantage: Smallman.
Who puts the fine in a fine-casual throwdown? Supper at Federal Galley from Vincent Perri vs. Brunoise at Smallman Galley from Ryan Peters
MM: I’m glad Supper is at Federal, offering snacks like duck fat fries ($4) and
cauliflower mash ($3), as well as baby kale salad and cumin-scented squash soup, although the duck fat fries aren’t as satisfying as I’d hoped and the mash was saltless, although the kitchen didn’t forget the pea shoots. Mr. Perri raises the offerings for mains with hanger steak with foie gras as well as suckling pork shank, quite a departure from its grilled cheese sandwich with smoked potato jam ($8). I would love for him to edit the menu to fewer offerings to strengthen its identity.
I’m a return customer at Brunoise for a leaner menu, which includes a beautifully plated beet and carrot salad ($11) with those carrots perfectly roasted and served with well-dressed greens.
MUNCH: If this were an actual boxing match, it’d be akin to the Pacquiao-Marquez draw in 2004. Each spot has produced two of the best things I’ve eaten in this still young year.
At Supper, the suckling pork shank ($18) was like the best, most elegant and elevated New Year’s pork and sauerkraut one might imagine. The tender, juicy pork is topped with lightly tangy daikon radish sauerkraut, served on a bed of creamy and subtly sweet carrot puree, and garnished with tart and crispy brandied apples and spicy pecans. There is something in this for every taste bud on your tongue.
Over at Brunoise it was the Braised Lamb Pasta ($21), a dish of wonderful decadence. The house cavatelli in a silky milk and cheese sauce and the rich braised lamb would be enough, but the topping of crisp, savory maitake mushrooms really sets it apart.
Which pizza is more Detroit? Iron Born Pizza from Pete Tolman at Smallman Galley vs. Michigan & Trumbull from Kristen Calverley and Nathan Peck at Federal
MM: My partner points out the belief that the best pizza is the one that’s in front of you. And that’s how it goes in this contest between Iron Born at Smallman and Michigan & Trumbull at Federal Galley.
I like the airiness of the crust at the Red Pie at Iron Born and the slightly crisp texture, although the squares and servings are ginormous and weigh a pound and a half for $16 — which is a lot of everything.
Michigan & Trumbull’s Detroit-style pies seem more Midwestern, with less loft, more cheese and more covet-worthy burnt corner bits. It’s also sold at a lower price point, starting at $10.
MUNCH: It’s my sincere hope that when their respective Galley stints are over, Iron Born and Michigan & Trumbull will locate side-by-side in a city neighborhood (preferably mine!) and create a Mineo’s-Aiello’s-style rivalry (albeit a friendlier one) for the next 40 or 50 years. They’re both that good, so it basically comes down to personal preference.
Iron Born’s Red Pie has a tangier sauce, and the way the cheddar cheese that’s baked into the signature crust edges reacts with it upon eating gives it a ridiculously delicious pop. Michigan & Trumble’s Packard Pepperoni has a denser crust, is a little cheesier with sauce sweeter (amped up by a bit of honey), and the burnt ends are a calling card. Both singe their pepperoni into excellent little teacups of grease.
But, as they say, you never forget your first, plus for me, savory > sweet, ergo Iron Born gets the nod but not by much.
Who makes a baller banh mi? Banhmilicious at Smallman Galley from Hoa Le vs. Provision PGH at Federal from Stephen Eldridge and Susan Cope
MM: Originally from Vietnam, Hoa Le nails the banh mi ($12.15), having worked in her family’s restaurant there. With pickled vegetables, dark-meat chicken, a raft of herbs and a crunchy baguette, the sandwich is only missing the chicken liver. Because the sandwich is served with the option of a fragrant pho broth, I’m sold on this one.
As for Provision PGH, there are lots of things to like from this Smallman alum that built its reputation on a great burger. That burger still resides, albeit at Federal Galley. And that’s what you should order, given that this take on banh mi ($13) doesn’t hit the mark, with pulled pork dressed in a shiny sweet teriyaki-like glaze, bread and butter pickles, and a slather of peanut aioli. How would I recognize this as a banh mi?
MUNCH: To borrow another boxing analogy, this one would be Tyson-Spinks in 1988 — a quick and brutal knockout.
In fairness, Provision PGH didn’t have much of a chance, given the aforementioned bona fides of Bahnmilicious’s Ms. Le. But its take seemed oddly like a sandwich filled with Chinese food and a lot of sauce. It was fairly tasty but also messy, and frankly it wasn’t a bahn mi. The bread was maybe a tick better, and toasted, which was appreciated. And the side of fresh-cut fries was very good.
Conversely, the “Ancient” Bahn Mi at Bahnmilicious was note perfect: The pickled vegetables, cilantro, jalapeno, cucumbers were fresh and clean; the barbecued pork tender, its sauce complementary but not overwhelming; the baguette excellent. And I concur with Ms. McCart’s feelings about the side cup grass-fed pho bone broth. It’s smooth, balanced and warming and could be guzzled by the gallon.
Pork: Tacos and enchiladas or cochnita and casamiento? Colonia at Smallman Galley from Jesse Barlass vs. El Lugar at Federal from Mr. Eldridge and Ms. Cope
MM: These pibil tacos ($3.50 each or $14 for a plate) need work: A minuscule portion of pork with little seasoning, and the corn tortilla delivering a pleasant flavor and a texture the consistency of homemade paper. There were no herbs like cilantro, and if you’d like salsa, you have to buy salsa and chips ($6), which is too stingy for such traditionally inexpensive fare.
The cochnita ($14), in contrast, dressed with annatto and citrus is great.
MUNCH: It’s said we eat with our eyes, and in that respect a plate of the the Pork Enchiladas ($15) at El Lugar looked like it was going to be delicious but instead was pretty bland. The pork pibil was hardly seasoned and pretty much lost in the thick tortilla. The bed of frijoles churros had no discernible flavor.
By comparison, the pork shines in the Funeral Bowl at Colonia. This is chef Jesse Barlass’ amped-up version of a traditional casamiento, or “wedding bowl,” which is a traditional Salvadoran dish of rice, beans, plantains and vegetables ($12). Here, the wonderfully marinated shredded pork, fresh jalapeno, radish, cilantro and pickled onion and hot spices are an awesome mix of tastes and textures.
And the dessert that does it Tres leches cake from Federal’s El Lugar and s’mores from Smallman’s Brunoise
MM: The tres leches cake from El Lugar is too dense for a light, airy sponge cake, although the three milks — evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk, and heavy cream — are spot on. I just wish a server did not insist on the spoonpushed plating.
The s’mores from Brunoise are more satisfying, although fussy for a food hall. Still, I’m glad for sweet treats. Other dessert options: cookies from Banhmilicious, pastries from Commonplace, both at Smallman. There are fewer selections at Federal Galley. Here’s hoping that will change.