This vinegar pie is made with apple cider vinegar. Recipe,

season’s apples, balanced with sugar and nutmeg, could mimic the tartness and sweetness of lemon. It’s a humble and simple combination, and oh so delicious.

It’s odd, though, that vinegar pie is a featured dessert at the newly opened Pie for Breakfast, the final eatery of Trevett and Sarah Hooper’s restaurant trifecta on Craig Street in Oakland, adjacent to contemporary Legume and Butterjoint. Who would have thunk it?

The wedge of pie is golden, translucent and quivery. There’s just the right pinch of salt in the lard crust. The filling balances the flavors of sweet and tart. Coffee adds the bitter note to complete an ideal quartet of flavor.

But why such an off-beat choice? “The reason for trying vinegar pie is simple: It sounded interesting,” Mr. Hooper said. “I’d seen it pop up over the years in various cookbooks, and I figured if something so weird sounding was included in so many cookbooks, it must be good. I’m also really interested in great recipes that can be made with ingredients that are always on hand, so the recipe resonated with me in that sense, too.”

The recipe is based on one included in an old Grange cookbook Mr. Hooper found in an antique store somewhere in Pennsylvania. The Grange, a farmers fraternal association organized in 1867, is still active today. Its community cookbooks spotlight rural cookery. You won’t find a recipe for vinegar pie in Ina Garten’s or Julia Child’s cookbooks. Try it. You’ll like it.