Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Dinette is among the ‘19 great restaurant­s to work for’

- By Arthi Subramania­m

Dinette, a pioneering restaurant in East Liberty, has been tabbed as one of the “19 great restaurant­s to work for” in the United States by Food & Wine.

While restaurant­s are notorious for paying low wages (half of workers earn well under the median living wage), garnering frequent reports of sexual harassment and having a high turnover rate (it is 53 percent higher than the national average), F&W reports, a growing number of restaurate­urs are seeking to improve job conditions for their employees by boosting wages and expanding benefits.

Owners are working harder to attract and keep good workers and are seeking out returning citizens such as those coming home from prison, F&W says in cities such as San Francisco, Boston and New Orleans to towns such Boulder, Utah. They also are trying to reduce turnover by eliminatin­g the traditiona­l tip model and instead pool tips across workers, or replace them with a living wage.

Dinette’s chef-owner, Sonja Finn, is one of those restaurate­urs who has dropped the tipping model. F&W recognized Ms. Finn for providing “top-tier wages and mentorship” to her 12 employees.

At first, she tried tip-pooling to raise the wages but had to shelve the idea “when it ran afoul of labor laws.” So in July 2017, she adopted a no-tipping policy and

raised the menu prices by 15 percent to accommodat­e the change. She said the increase was to provide financial security for the front of the house.

On Sunday, Ms. Finn said she was thrilled to get a shout-out from F&W and heartened that it was paying attention to an issue that she has long cared about.

“Restaurant­s are often recognized for the chefs, food or ambience. But it is rarely for the way it runs, or how the employees are treated,” she said.

While in Pennsylvan­ia, the minimum wage is $7.25 per hour and $2.83 for tipped employees, in Ms. Finn’s kitchen, all cooks start at $15 and dishwasher­s at $13.50. Servers get $20 and hosts/hostesses get $15. Also, all full-time employees are eligible for health insurance and kitchen staff get paid time off.

When it comes to health benefits, Ms. Finn offers a zero-deductible health plan and pays 80 percent of the premium.

“As a single owner/operator it absolutely hurts my wallet,” she said. “But this is what I believe in. When I see injustice I want to make it right.”

It is an expensive financial decision especially since it means lower revenue at a time when the number of restaurant­s are exploding, she said, but it is up to the owners to take action and provide for their staff “because the lawmakers are not doing anything.”

Dinette will turn 11 in October and has had 100 workers over the years, including the ones currently employed. Ms. Finn is pleased that the turnover is nothing like the national average and attributes that to the conducive environmen­t at her restaurant in addition to the wages and benefits. “Workers feel respected and since we focus on high-quality food, they are proud of what they do,” she said. “And disrespect­ful or aggressive behavior is not tolerated.”

F&W also acknowledg­es Ms. Finn for her mentorship toward her staff.

Eight of Dinette’s alumni have successful­ly opened other food businesses in town, and they are: Robert Stockard of Pear and the Pickle, Troy Hill; Becca Hagerty of Bitter Ends Garden & Luncheonet­te, Bloomfield; Lauren Zanardelli of Fairlane, Mt. Lebanon; Jeanette Harris of Gluten Free Goat Bakery, Garfield; Yelena Barnhouse of Lola Bistro, North Side; Sean Hallisey of Full Pint Brewing Co., North Versailles; Jeff Ryan of Pizza Boat (pop-up pizzeria) and Spirit, Lawrencevi­lle; and Matt Watson of Pizza Boat. Another former employee, Jessica Bower, had opened Fort Louise in Nashville, Tenn., but the restaurant closed in January.

Her current employees Jeffrey Parker, front of the house manager and bartender, and Sarah Baugher, sous chef, both value the fact that Ms. Finn ensures a friendly work environmen­t and is a caring owner.

Mr. Parker, who has worked at Dinette for six years, first as a host and then a server, said he appreciate­s that his boss is capable of doing the same work that she expects from her employees. “If someone calls in sick, she will come in and work the shift for you, even if it is for weeks and months,” he said.

Ms. Baugher echoed a similar sentiment. She moved here from Charleston, S.C., and started at Dinette last October. “As a woman, to work for a woman like her is inspiring,” she said. “She sees her employees as real people. She is one of us.”

The other restaurant­s for F&W’s list include Biscuit Love in Nashville for having therapists on staff; Bini’s Kitchen in San Francisco for offering transport subsidy and living wages; Ardent in Milwaukee for having regular set schedules and maternity leave; Mama J’s in Richmond, Va., for giving annual raises; Mei Mei in Boston for its open-book management and employee training; and Mondo and Rosedale in New Orleans for holding anti-harassment training and offering health insurance.

 ?? Rebecca Lessner/Post-Gazette ?? Jeffrey Parker, the front of the house manager and bartender, has been an employee at Dinette for six years.
Rebecca Lessner/Post-Gazette Jeffrey Parker, the front of the house manager and bartender, has been an employee at Dinette for six years.

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