BLACK IS KING
BEYONCE’S NEW VISUAL ALBUM IS A FASHION FEAST FOR THE EYES
Beyonce’s new visual album “Black Is King” is not only a treat for the ears but also a feast for the eyes.
The 85-minute film weaves together striking hairstyles and designer fashions to help tell its twist on “The Lion King” for the streaming platform Disney+. But experts in Black style and African studies say these garments and the way they’re dressed up with hair and makeup aren’t just something pretty to look at while Beyonce croons for the camera. They’re inspired by history and cultures from across Africa.
Producing “Black Is King” was a year-long endeavor that encompassed people and places in New York, Los Angeles, South Africa, West Africa, London and Belgium.
“I love that Beyonce was intentional about supporting Black designers and highlighting their work,” said Demeatria Boccella, founder and director of Pittsburgh-based FashionAFRICANA, which celebrates the beauty of the African diaspora through fashion and the arts.
Beyonce’s longtime stylist Zerina Akers sought out looks by several Black independent designers. Some of the standouts included a black bodysuit dripping in strands of sparkles by D.Bleu.Dazzled, a black-andwhite structured jacket by Loza Maleombho, a crystal fringe dress from Lace by Tanaya, floral bodysuits by S.Garvey and a custom NGOR dress by Tongoro’s Sarah Diouf. These were featured alongside big luxe labels such as Balmain, Burberry, Mugler, Valentino and Alexander
McQueen.
Beyond amplifying Black talent, Ms. Akers told The Hollywood Reporter some of the fashion choices were made to challenge stereotypes, particularly ones related to bold prints and accessories.
“They maybe call people ignorant for wanting to wear a gold chain or wanting to kind of overdo it. Wealth looks very different in Black and white, and it really ties back to the decadence in many African cultures,” she said. “I wanted to create leopard and animal-print ensembles that spoke to the real woman while trying to strip away some of that fear of wearing animal print.”
The hairstyles — guided by lead hairstylist Neal Farinah — also are steeped in significance. In several scenes, Beyonce’s bantu knots, cascades of braids and headdresses are nods to history.
“I have learned so much that some hairstyles were passed on from generation to generation, to respect your elders, and to respect a married woman . ... These hairstyles are so deep,” Mr. Farinah told Essence. “Black women’s hair and Black trends have been put down for so many years. And I’m so proud that we can do this and educate people about Blackness and Black hair, Black trends, how amazing it is and the story behind it.”
Natural hair care expert Tamiah Bridgett spotted hairstyles connected to several African countries and tribes and praised “Black Is King” for incorporating the breadth of ways Black people wear their hair.
“Some people had something to say about seeing long flowing, silky hair, but that’s also part of the aesthetic of the way Black women wear their hair across the diaspora,” said Ms. Bridgett, founder of the 10-year-old natural hair education and meet-up group It’s a Natural Thang Pittsburgh. “Particularly on Disney+ with little girls watching, I hope Black girls will see themselves and that their hair is represented.”
While “Black Is King” has been applauded for celebrating Black beauty and culture, others have critiqued it for perhaps oversimplifying the complexities of Africa and its many countries.
“You’re talking about over 300 cultures in one continent that people who are not there just look at as one thing,” said Nicole Mitchell Gantt, the William S. Dietrich II chair and director of jazz studies at the University of Pittsburgh.
Ms. Gantt is a creative flutist in her own right who has produced three albums influenced by the work of late science fiction writer Octavia Butler. When examining the success and impact of a project like “Black Is King,” she says it’s important to examine the artist’s intent.
“I think it has great significance in terms of looking at Beyonce’s career and because she’s taking risks more than she ever has in her life. To be someone who the whole world looks at and critiques at every blink of an eye and to make something like this is incredibly courageous,” she said.
She considers it a work of Afrofuturism that pushes boundaries by bringing new narratives and imagery of Black people into mainstream media.
“Afrofuturism is so exciting to me because for so long there’s been a focus on tradition in African American culture that’s looking back,” she said. “The idea that Black contemporary art and Black experimental art is now being pushed to the forefront of African American expression and pop culture is extremely powerful. ”