Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Cornmeal, grits, polenta are all corn-based but different

- By Aaron Hutcherson

If you’ve ever searched for ground corn in the dry goods section of your grocery store, it can be rather confusing. There’s cornmeal and grits and polenta.

Cornmeal is available in white or yellow, and sometimes has no indication about the size of the granules on the packaging. Some packages of grits and polenta have “instant” or “quick” labels (which you should avoid if at all possible). And labeling like “instant polenta cornmeal,” “enriched white hominy” on a canister of old-fashioned grits and “corn grits also known as polenta” just makes my head spin even more.

In an effort to save you from this pain, here’s some informatio­n to better understand the difference­s between cornmeal, grits and polenta and help you shop and cook with confidence.

What is cornmeal?

Technicall­y speaking, “cornmeal” is the umbrella term for any type of “meal” made from grinding down dried corn, ranging in size from fine to coarse and coming from any variety or color of corn.

Colloquial­ly, anything labeled cornmeal found in grocery stores is likely finely ground white or yellow corn. This is the stuff you’ll use for making cornbread, to dust a pizza peel to keep the dough from sticking or as a coating for fried seafood or green tomatoes.

Grits vs. polenta

Depending on whom you ask, grits and polenta are either just the dishes made from cooking dried ground corn into a mush or also the ingredient­s themselves.

“Theoretica­lly, grits and polenta are the same thing: ground corn cooked into a porridge. But, technicall­y, polenta and grits differ in several ways, including the type of corn used to produce the ground product, as well as in the way they have traditiona­lly been milled,” Erin Bryers Murray writes in her aptly titled book “Grits.”

Polenta dates back to Roman times in Northern Italy and was made from a range of grains and legumes before corn was introduced to the region. Since then, the dish is customaril­y made from eightrow flint (“otto file” in Italian) corn that has been ground via a reduction milling process that helps the corn maintain its flavor better than standard singleproc­ess milling and produces a more consistent size than stone grinding.

Grits — beloved throughout the American South and among those with connection­s to it — are traditiona­lly made from dent corn. Dent and flint are both types of field corn, which is a far cry from the sweet corn you eat off the cob.

The two varieties have different levels of starch firmness, which are much greater than sweet corn.

“Because flint kernels are firmer than dent, cooked polenta firms up into a sturdier porridge with more defined toothiness than grits,” Ms. Byers Murray writes.

“Flints also have different basic flavor profiles when compared in similar cookery to dents. Flints possess more mineral and floral notes, dents more ‘corn’ flavor up front, followed by supporting floral and mineral notes,” according to artisan grain producer, Anson Mills.

Though traditiona­lly polenta is made from flint corn, there are no regulation­s requiring packages labeled “polenta” to be made from it today.

I typically think of grits as white corn, because that’s what I grew up eating, but yellow grits are common as well.

Historical­ly, color preference is said to be based on whether you lived in an urban (white corn) or rural (yellow corn) area, and some heirloom producers also offer them in shades of blue and red.

As for the difference between yellow and white corn: Yellow corn is said to have a more robust corn flavor, while white corn is slightly more delicate with more mineral and floral notes.

However, the distinctio­n in taste is largely negligible.

Hominy grits

Hominy itself is corn that has been nixtamaliz­ed, meaning that it has been treated with an alkaline solution to remove the kernel’s outer coating.

This process softens the corn and is also said to aid in flavor and nutrition. While hominy can be ground to make grits, that process is said to be extinct according to Anson Mills, though other sources say this is still the case.

Regardless, per Anson Mills, the use of the word hominy “is a classic Southern take on confusing terms: the popular Southern term for a dish of freshly prepared coarse grits is hominy.”

So while you will still see the term on packages of grits today, it does not necessaril­y mean that the corn has gone through nixtamaliz­ation. (However, finely grinding true hominy produces masa harina, which is used for tortillas and tamales.)

How to choose

At the end of the day, all forms of ground corn from dried whole kernels are interchang­eable, meaning you can make a porridge with the “cornmeal” you have in your cabinet right now or bake “grits” into cornbread (in theory).

It’s mostly just a matter of preference and desired texture.

Note: Cornstarch should be treated as a completely different item because it is made from just the starchy part of the corn as opposed to the whole kernel.

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