Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Like a kid in a candy store for Easter

- Mary Culbertson-Stark Mary Culbertson-Stark is a Pittsburgh artist.

Every Easter, a stainless steel chocolate rabbit mold that has been in my family for years makes an appearance on my mantel. I bring it out as a reminder of how the confluence of people flowing though life informs our own unique passage.

Growing up in a family business, I was surrounded by a bevy of great aunts, distant cousins, and uncles by marriage. They came to work in my grandmothe­r’s shop from all parts of the city. Some took the trolley from modest brownstone­s dotting the rolling neighborho­ods of Beechview and Brookline. Others were from Pittsburgh’s West End. One drove in from a farm in Peters Township. Another traveled from Squirrel Hill.

Largely from second-generation immigrant families, they were stoic, colorful characters with heartfelt personalit­ies of insurmount­able size. Some were skill specific; others just needed a job. They were unvarnishe­d salts of the earth who could just as easily break out in hilarious raucous clock-stopping language or forfeit into quiet whispers without missing a beat. And I had a front-row seat.

The business began before I was born. During the Depression, to make ends meet, my grandmothe­r dug in and created homemade chocolates in her Carrick kitchen. As teens, my father and his brother went door to door selling the chocolates she had carefully packaged. A family recipe coupled with word of mouth grew the venture into a business, enabling my grandmothe­r to open a small shop along Brownsvill­e Road. In the beginning, she hired her sisters, whom she trusted and had raised from the age of 14. The rest of the family was soon to follow. Grandma was tenacious and smart. By 1957, the business had grown to factory status servicing a network of mom-andpop stores across the Pittsburgh region. Around that time, my father stepped in to take the helm, seeking ways to expand the chocolate enterprise.

Enter the stainless steel rabbit mold on my mantel. Many chocolate molds popularize­d in the mid-20th century were made of steel in Germany. When World War II broke out, most German companies stopped production. The steel-made molds that were still accessible in the U.S. rusted easily. As the war ensued, it was hard to find replacemen­ts. Soon, the practicali­ty of chocolate mold production fell out of favor.

In the 1950s, a growing market for the production of chocolate novelties made a resurgence. Designers introduced nickel and plattinol, a non rusting alloy, to make molds safer and more recyclable for consumers. Such innovation­s made investment by a small company, such as my grandmothe­r’s, more amenable. This prompted my family to invest, join ranks with other chocolate producers and reintroduc­e the production of chocolate novelties to Pittsburgh. The business thrived.

Lent and the weeks leading up to Easter became our high season. My siblings and I were drafted to work after school and onweekends in the cooling rooms releasing the chocolate novelties from their molds (a delicate task), bagging each novelty in separate cellophane wrappings or packing the orders for delivery. At one point, we were producing over 60 different designs of rabbits, lambs, peeps and other Easter ephemera. Alongside my aunts, their neighbors, second cousins and temporary hires, we worked the cogs of the wheel that made the business spin the ledgers from red to black.

These were jobs that allowed for conversati­on to flow while the hands summarily worked. From these conversati­ons, I learned the value of being present, the satisfacti­on of tasks completed, team work, and intuiting need. I also learned what to do on a first date, why girls are different from boys, and how being true to oneself is the ultimate compliment. As an aspiring creative, I drew upon these conversati­ons for my narratives, finding their realities more compelling than anything I could ever conjure. Some of the conversati­ons prompted me to seek books and music I may otherwise have never encountere­d. Later, as a teacher, this collective knowledge fostered an instinctua­l ability for assessing the needs of students. Public speaking became theater and talking with strangers an ease. I don’t know exactly when I learned this, but I know where and from whom.

For the 10 or 12 years I worked at the store until its closing in the 1970s, I didn’t anticipate the impact those individual­s would have on the developmen­t of my character. An imaginary wink from a stainless steel rabbit on my mantel each year serves to remind me. I was privy to an unsuspecti­ng education all those years, perhaps one more valuable than any of my advanced degrees. Yet, at the time, I was just a kid in a candy store.

 ?? Pittsbrugh Post-Gazette ?? Chocoalte bunnies remind us all of Easter.
Pittsbrugh Post-Gazette Chocoalte bunnies remind us all of Easter.

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