Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

CORN WITH SHIITAKES AND THYME

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PG tested

It’s hard to beat fresh summer corn eaten right off the cob, but this comes close. Made with the freshest corn, it’s impossibly sweet and balanced by the complement­ary earthiness of shiitakes and thyme. To feed a crowd or make this into an entrée, fold in a pound of cooked orzo, and serve with grilled sausages.

8-10 ears of corn, husked and rinsed to remove remaining silk

1-2 teaspoons olive oil or neutral cooking oil

8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps diced

Salt and freshly cracked black pepper

3 tablespoon­s butter 3 tablespoon­s cream

1 ½ - 2 tablespoon­s of fresh thyme (do not use dried)

¼ cup freshly grated Parm i g i a n o Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, plus more for serving

Prepare corn: Using a stripping tool or a sharp knife, remove the kernels from each cob into a bowl. Once kernels are removed, scrape each cob with the back of a knife. You want all of that sweet corn milk and pulp to go straight into the bowl.

Heat a drizzle of oil in a large skillet over mediumhigh heat and add diced shiitakes and a pinch or two of salt. Saute until the mushrooms release their water, take on a translucen­t appearance and start to get crispy and golden. Lower heat to medium-low and add a few grinds of cracked pepper, allowing it to bloom in the heat for a few seconds.

Add the corn, taking care to scrape all of the starchy milk from the bowl. Fold the corn into the hot mushrooms and take advantage of the liquid to deglaze any crispy brown mushroom bits from the bottom of the skillet.

Once the corn is hot — this will take a few minutes of occasional stirring — add in butter and cream and fold to incorporat­e. As the contents of the pan come to a simmer, you should notice the butter, cream and corn milk thicken. Cook for 2-3 minutes more.

Add in thyme and Parmigiano, sprinkling over the top in an even layer and stirring to incorporat­e (dumping your cheese in in a pile will result in a lump of chewy melted cheese). Cook for a final minute while stirring constantly to incorporat­e and emulsify the cheese into the sauce. Add additional salt and/or cheese to taste, and serve immediatel­y.

Serves 4.

— Jessicarob­yn Keyser

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