Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

SHRIMP AND SWEET CORN SPAETZLE

- — Jessicarob­yn Keyser

PG tested

This recipe is a fresh take on Shrimp & Grits. We replace the grits with a homemade sweet corn-flavored spaetzle, and fold in extra corn for more sweetness. The pasta dough uses three forms of corn: fresh sweet kernels, corn flour (not cornmeal or masa) and sweet corn powder (not cornstarch). Though unusual, those ingredient­s are easy to order online or find in specialty markets, and they add an intense, deep flavor to the dish.

Spaetzle dough can be made ahead and frozen for up to a month; it can be grated without thawing. For a pescataria­n dish, replace the pork with mushrooms or oilcured olives, or just omit.

For shrimp

1 ½ pounds — 16- 20 shrimp, shell-on

1 teaspoon baking soda 1 tablespoon salt

1 quart chicken, vegetable or seafood stock

¼ cup flour

2 tablespoon­s Old Bay, Sazon or Cajun seasoning Neutral oil, for pan

½ pound bacon, pancetta or chorizo, diced

1 large onion (any kind, about the size of a softball), diced

1 shallot, diced

1 medium zucchini, grated 1 medium tomato (size of a baseball), diced

For spaetzle

6-8 ears of corn, husked and rinsed to remove any remaining silk 5 eggs

450 grams (about 2 cups) all-purpose flour

90 grams ( around 3 ounces) corn flour (not cornmeal or masa harina)

130 grams (around 4½ ounces) corn powder (made from freeze-dried corn)

25 grams (2 tablespoon­s) sugar

2 tablespoon­s butter Prepare shrimp: Remove the shells and reserve; place shrimp in a large bowl and cover with water. Add baking soda and salt and allow to brine for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Place shrimp in a sauce pot with stock and simmer over medium-low heat until reduced by half; remove and discard shells. Allow stock to cool at room temperatur­e while prepping dough.

Prepare spaetzle dough: Remove kernels from ears with a stripping tool or sharp knife. Once cobs are stripped, scrape them with the back of the knife to release the corn milk and pulp into the bowl of kernels.

Divide kernels: remove most of the corn to a blender, and save excess for finishing the dish.

Add 5 eggs to the corn in the blender and puree until smooth.

Whisk together flour, corn flour, corn powder and sugar in a large bowl. Once thoroughly incorporat­ed, make an impression in the center of the dry ingredient­s and pour in egg and corn puree.

Using a wooden spoon or your hands, stir to incorporat­e, then invert dough onto a floured counter top and knead until smooth, 5 minutes or so. Divide dough into four balls for easy handling, wrap in plastic wrap and place in the freezer for 30 minutes.

Drain and rinse the shrimp, pat dry and toss with flour and Old Bay.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Heat a drizzle of neutral cooking oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and pan- fry the shrimp until golden-brown on each side, 2-3 minutes. You may need to do this in batches to ensure that they don’t steam.

Once the shrimp are finished, remove to a bowl to rest. Add diced bacon to the skillet and fry until crisp, 7-8 minutes. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and allow to drain on paper towels.

Add onions and shallots to the skillet and saute until translucen­t and starting to brown, 5-7 minutes.

Add shredded zucchini and tomatoes to the onions and shallots and saute until the vegetables have released their water and the sauce is beginning to thicken, 3- 5 minutes.

Add the reduced stock, now fortified with shrimp shells, and lower the heat to just a simmer.

Once the stock is boiling, press the spaetzle dough through a spaetzle maker (or grate over the largest holes of a box grater) into the water; spaetzle will cook quickly, in 2- 3 minutes, and is done when it floats.

Skim or strain the spaetzle, reserving ½ cup of pasta water.

Return pasta to the pot, lower the heat to low, add 2 tablespoon­s of butter and remaining corn kernels, and drizzle in half of the reserved pasta water, stirring rapidly to emulsify the sauce. Add salt to taste, and more water if needed. Turn off the heat and cover while you finish the shrimp.

Add shrimp back to the vegetable skillet and bring sauce to a simmer by raising the heat to medium. Simmer for 2-3 minutes until sauce is thick. Add salt to taste if needed, and serve over spaetzle in bowls.

Serves 4-6.

 ?? Jessicarob­yn Keyser ??
Jessicarob­yn Keyser

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