Lamb shanks with apricots and chickpeas

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: About 3 ½ hours

About 4 to 5 pounds lamb shanks (4 total)

Salt and pepper

¼ cup olive oil

1 large onion, diced (about 1 ½ cups)

1 ½ teaspoons grated garlic (from 1 large clove)

1 dried bay leaf

Large pinch of saffron

3 tablespoons tomato paste 1 tablespoon sweet paprika

½ pound dried apricots (1 generous cup)

1 pound parsnips, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks (slice any larger end pieces in half lengthwise)

1 (14-ounce) can chickpeas, drained (1 ½ cups)

½ cup roughly chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems

1. Season lamb shanks generously with salt and pepper. Place in a Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot. Cover with 6 cups water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a low simmer and cook, covered with lid ajar, for 1 hour. Remove shanks and reserve cooking liquid. Wipe out the pan. (You may cook the lamb shanks in advance, even a day ahead.)

2. Set Dutch oven over medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add onions and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon garlic, bay leaf, saffron, tomato paste and paprika. Stir together and let sizzle for 1 minute, then add reserved lamb broth and bring to a boil. Add lamb shanks and apricots, cover with lid ajar and simmer for 1 ½ hours, until meat is very tender, nearly falling off the bone.

3. Remove shanks and place on a cutting board to cool. Add parsnips to simmering broth, and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Taste broth and adjust seasoning. If necessary, reduce over medium-high heat to concentrate cooking juices.

4. When shanks are cool enough to handle, remove the bones (use your hands). Cut the meat into large chunks and return to the pot to warm through. Transfer meat and sauce to a serving platter.

5. To finish, warm remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add remaining ½ teaspoon garlic and let sizzle without browning, about 30 seconds. Add chickpeas and warm them through, about 5 minutes. Season lightly with salt, and toss with the chopped cilantro. Spoon chickpeas over lamb and sauce.