More than Sails in the Sunset
bovich aggressively in pursuit of the fish, never letting more than about 30 feet from the transom.
In short order we had our release, quite a feat. Poppy went on to catch two fish on 6-pound, and never broke one off. It takes a deft hand to stay attached to a fish weighing a hundred pounds or more while using such light line, but that’s what makes it fun. We were contemplating a reduction to 4-pound-test when a marlin suddenly popped up among the teasers.
Poppy instinctively reached for the heavy marlin rod, but Brice shouted from the bridge to throw the 6-pound at it and whatever happened would happen, so that’s just what she did. A striped marlin had risen from the depths, and Poppy dropped back the rigged ballyhoo repeatedly as the striper slashed at the bait again and again, but kept missing it. Our hearts pounded as we watched the fish’s repeated attempts to feed it get much I’ve returned to the Casa Vieja Lodge every year since 2006 and have come to know and love much more about Guatemala than just its great billfishing. As most urban centers in Central America are, Guatemala City is a fascinating cultural melting pot, with extremes of great wealth and crushing poverty. But the city, which almost 2.5 million people call home, has a captivating rhythm with many great bars, restaurants, and hotels. It’s a mistake to look at the city as a place to fly in and out of.
Then there’s the ancient city of Antigua, with 16th century architecture and cobblestone streets nestled at the base of two active volcanoes. Antigua serves as a major tourist destination, but it’s a must-see on any trip, and an easy side or day trip from the lodge. Guatemala specializes in mining high-quality jade, and many fine stores in Antigua sell stunning creations made from that beautiful stone.
Antigua also offers tours of ancient ruins, horse-drawn carriage rides, and many wonderful restaurants and hotels, including the Casa Santo Domingo, a 16th century monastery converted into a 128-room hotel complete with a museum and a fine restaurant of its own. itself, and then suddenly, it was gone. The encounter ended as quickly as it began, and though she didn’t hook it, we all agreed that sometimes the ones you don’t catch make as big an impression as the ones you do.
In 2012, David and Kristen Salazar bought Casa Vieja Lodge, and they have continued the investment in the property begun by Turner. There’s an all-new restaurant and bar with a suite of new guest rooms complementing those in the original old house. The Salazars are encouraging family trips to the lodge, with ladies and kids welcome to join Dad on a fishing excursion.
Guatemala offers a mixture of modern and indigenous cultures combined with the most consistent sailfish bite in the world. In most other well-known sailfish destinations, there are seasonal peaks as the fish migrate through the area. But Guatemala seems to be one place where the fish simply stay year-round. This has to be due to some still poorly understood combination of currents and bait concentrations, but whatever the reason, we know the fish are there, and that’s good enough for me.
It’s almost overkill to mention how consistent the marlin action can be as well. While definitely not as numerous as the sails, blue, black, and striped marlin show up regularly in the spreads, with blues being by far the most common of the three. And while no one goes to Guatemala to target them, the dolphin fishing is off the chain much of the year as well.
This is significant because the Casa Vieja crews cook hot lunches aboard their boats every day for their clients, and a fresh mahi sandwich made from a fish caught only minutes earlier adds a special touch to an already spectacular experience. Casa Vieja Lodge features a high standard of service, but that’s what separates it from many other lodges, and it’s just one more reason why I eagerly anticipate my next visit.
Casa Vieja Lodge, 800-882-4665; www.casaviejalodge.com
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