→ EAT & DRINK
HIDDEN SPEAKEASY
You need to ring a doorbell to enter this intimate, mid-centurystyled speakeasy at number 7 Buchfeldgasse. No menus here: pull up a seat, and after a brief consultation, the bartender will mix a bespoke concoction that specifically suits your palate. The library of liquors features all the usual suspects, as well as rare and intriguing bottles. Email to book a table, or perch at the bar to watch the magic happen. tuer7.at
SCHNITZEL IN A SECRET GARDEN
In an 18th-century house that opens onto the cobblestone streets of the trendy Spittelberg neighborhood, Amerlingbeisl’s magical courtyard covered with vines and lanterns is a sanctuary for food lovers. The menu is Austrian with a contemporary twist — try the organic pork schnitzel (or better yet, veal, if it’s on the specials board) served with Austrian potato salad, or Brettljause, a plate of local cheeses, cold cuts, pickles, and dips traditionally served in Vienna’s vineyards. Plan ahead — reservations are a must. amerlingbeisl.at
COFFEE AND STRUDEL
Vienna’s oldest Kaffeehaus, Café Frauenhuber, has been running for two centuries in a 300-yearold building and, according to legend, played host to Mozart and Beethoven. It’s often overlooked for more famous counterparts such as Central or Hawelka — so take advantage of the lack of crowds and slip into a velvet booth to order a Melange, an espresso topped with steamed milk and foam, and a flaky Apfelstrudel, before whiling the afternoon away people-watching or playing chess. cafefrauenhuber.at of Otto Wagner’s Art Nouveau Majolikahaus, sits one of Vienna’s most scenic outdoor markets. On Saturday mornings (6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.), some 400 sellers set up their stalls, peddling curiosities from grandfather clocks and antique chandeliers to vinyl records and quirky pocket watches. Brush up on your German to negotiate a bargain that tells a story.
A MUSICAL EMPORIUM
An institution in Vienna, and an intrinsic part of the city’s musical history, 200-year-old Musikhaus Doblinger is famous above all for its sheet music, with an extensive stock of hard-to-find scores. You don’t have to be a musician to appreciate its charmingly old-fashioned shop floor, though, or the graciousness of its staff and the wide range of musicrelated gifts, from CDs and jewelry to composer busts. After an opera or concert, make a beeline here to pick up a piece of Vienna’s musical heritage to take home. doblinger.at/en
THE ART OF FASHION
Austrian fashion designer Romana Zöchling specializes in merging fashion with art. Her playful, creative style has drawn the attention of actors and musicians, including Austria’s 2019 Eurovision entry, whose costumes she created. In the buzzy Neubau district, her boutique Ferrari Zöchling stocks limited-edition couture designed in collaboration with local artists and handmade on-site — ideal for those seeking a modern, yet uniquely Viennese, wardrobe update. ferrarizoechling.com