Au­tumn Rin­glets

Bring in the au­tumn sea­son with this quilt done in warm col­ors. Put it on a bed or lay it across the sofa. What a way to stay warm on crisp fall evenings.

Quilter's World - - Contents - DE­SIGN BY CHLOE AN­DER­SON & COLLEEN REALE OF TOADUSEW QUILTED BY LINDA LEATHERSTITCH

MA­TE­RI­ALS

• 1/4 yard each gold, green, chest­nut, dark pur­ple and red tonals • 1/4 yard each mint green, olive

green, am­ber and dark red tonals • 1/4 yard very dark brown tonal • 1/3 yard pur­ple mot­tled • 3/8 yard laven­der tonal • 1/2 yard light brown tonal • 1/2 yard each 12 as­sorted cream/

beige tonals • 7/8 yard dark brown tonal • 1 yard tan swirl tonal • 12/3 yards cream tonal • 17/8 yards tof­fee swirl tonal • Back­ing to size • Bat­ting to size • Thread • Ba­sic sewing tools and sup­plies

CUT­TING

From gold, green, chest­nut, dark pur­ple and red tonals: • Cut 1 (27/8" by fab­ric width) strip each. Sub­cut strip into 4 each 27/8" H and

23/4" B squares • Cut 1 (23/8" by fab­ric width) strip each. Sub­cut strip into 8 each 23/8" A

squares. From mint, green, olive green, am­ber and dark red tonals: • Cut 1 (21/2" by fab­ric width) strip each fab­ric. Sub­cut strips into 8 (21/2") G squares

each fab­ric. • Cut 1 (27/8" by fab­ric width) strip each fab­ric.

Sub­cut strips into 8 (27/8") H squares. From very dark brown tonal: • Cut 1 (21/2" by fab­ric width) strip.

Sub­cut strip into 8 (21/2") G squares • Cut 1 (31/2" by fab­ric width) strip. Sub­cut strip into 4 (31/2") P squares

and 8 (27/8") H squares. From pur­ple mot­tled: • Cut 1 (21/2" by fab­ric width) strip.

Sub­cut strip into 8 (21/2") G squares. • Cut 1 (41/2" by fab­ric width) strip. Sub­cut strip into 4 each 41/2" L

and 27/8" H squares. From laven­der tonal: • Cut 1 (33/8" by fab­ric width) strip.

Sub­cut strip into 2 (33/8") T squares. • Cut 6 (1" by fab­ric width) U strips. From light brown tonal: • Cut 1 (21/2" by fab­ric width) strip.

Sub­cut strip into 4 (21/2") V squares. • Cut 7 (11/2" by fab­ric width) W strips. From 12 as­sorted cream/beige tonals: • Cut 1 (27/8" by fab­ric width) strip each fab­ric. Sub­cut strips into a to­tal of

68 (27/8") I squares. • Cut 1 (47/8" by fab­ric width) strip each fab­ric. Sub­cut strips into 2 each 47/8" E squares, 23/4" C squares (29 to­tal), 17/8" F squares and 2" K squares and 1 (23/8") D square. Cut each E square in half on 1 di­ag­o­nal to make a to­tal of 48 E tri­an­gles. • Cut 2 (21/2" by fab­ric width) strips each fab­ric. Sub­cut strips into 26 (21/2") J squares each fab­ric; dis­card 8 to to­tal 304 J squares.

From dark brown tonal:

• Cut 9 (21/4" by fab­ric width) bind­ing strips.

From tan swirl tonal:

• Cut 1 (41/2" by fab­ric width) strip.

Sub­cut strip into 4 (41/2") X squares. • Cut 7 (31/2" by fab­ric width) Y strips.

From cream tonal:

• Cut 5 (11/2" by fab­ric width) M strips. • Cut 8 (21/2" by fab­ric width) strips. Sub­cut strips into 8 (21/2" x 221/2") N strips and 4 each 21/2" x 31/2" O and 21/2" x 51/2" Q rec­tan­gles. • Cut 1 (33/8" by fab­ric width) strip.

Sub­cut strip into 2 (33/8") squares. • Cut 7 (21/2" by fab­ric width) R strips.

From tof­fee swirl tonal:

• Cut 1 (27/8" by fab­ric width) strip. Sub­cut strip into 4 (27/8") H squares

and 4 (23/4") B squares. • Cut 1 (23/8" by fab­ric width) strip.

Sub­cut strip into 8 (23/8") A squares. • Cut 8 (6" by fab­ric width) Z/ZZ strips.

COM­PLET­ING THE FRAMED LEAF BLOCKS

1. To com­plete one Framed Leaf block, se­lect two same-fab­ric B squares, four same-fab­ric A squares, two F squares, two C squares, one D square and four E tri­an­gles.

2. Draw a di­ag­o­nal line through the cen­ter of the wrong side of each C and F square.

3. Re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 1, place a C square right sides to­gether with a B square and stitch 1/4" on each side of the marked line. Cut apart on the marked line and press the two B-C units open with seams to­ward B.

4. Re­peat step 3 to com­plete a to­tal of four B-C units.

5. Place F on op­po­site cor­ners of an A square and stitch on the marked lines as shown in Fig­ure 2; trim 1/4" beyond the stitched line on each cor­ner and press F to the right side to com­plete an A-F unit as shown in Fig­ure 3.

6. Join two B-C units with D to com­plete the D row as shown in Fig­ure 4; press seams to­ward D.

7. Join two A squares with one B-C unit to make the A row as shown in Fig­ure 5; press seams to­ward A.

8. Join one each A square and B-C unit with the A-F unit to com­plete the stem row as shown in Fig­ure 6; press seams to­ward the B-C unit.

9. Join the rows as shown in Fig­ure 7 to com­plete the leaf unit; press seams to­ward the A row.

10. Sew an E tri­an­gle to each side of the leaf unit to com­plete one Framed Leaf block as shown in Fig­ure 8; press seams to­ward E. 11.

Re­peat steps 1–10 to com­plete two blocks each of the gold, green, chest­nut, dark pur­ple, tof­fee swirl and red tonals as shown in Fig­ure 9.

COM­PLET­ING THE LEAF BLOCKS

1. To com­plete one Leaf block, se­lect two same-fab­ric H squares, two I squares, four same-fab­ric G squares, two K squares and one J square.

2. Draw a di­ag­o­nal line through the cen­ter of the wrong side of each I and K square.

3. Re­peat steps 3–9 for Com­plet­ing the Framed Leaf Blocks, sub­sti­tut­ing H for B, I for C, J for D, G for A and K for F as shown in Fig­ure 10 to com­plete one Leaf block.

4. Re­peat steps 1–3 to com­plete a to­tal of two blocks each of the mint green, olive green, am­ber, dark red and very dark brown tonals and pur­ple mot­tled as shown in Fig­ure 11.

COM­PLET­ING THE PIECED CEN­TER

1. Se­lect and join six J squares to make a J-6 unit as shown in Fig­ure 12, press­ing seams in rows in op­po­site di­rec­tions. Re­peat to make 16 J-6 units.

2. Se­lect and join nine J squares to make a J-9 unit as in step 1, again re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 12. Re­peat to make four J-9 units.

3. Se­lect and join 12 J squares to make a J-12 unit as in step 1, again re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 12. Re­peat to make eight J-12 units.

4. Se­lect and join 16 J squares to make a J-16 unit as in step 1, again re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 12.

5. Se­lect and join four J squares to make a J-4 unit as in step 1, again re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 12. Re­peat to make eight J-4 units.

6. Se­lect four J-6 units, two J-12 units and one J-9 unit, one tof­fee Framed Leaf block and one each am­ber, very dark brown and dark red tonal Leaf blocks.

7. Ar­range and join the blocks and units to com­plete Unit 1 as shown in Fig­ure 13, press­ing seams in the di­rec­tions shown by ar­rows in the draw­ing. Re­peat to make a sec­ond Unit 1.

8. Se­lect one J-9 unit, two J-12 units and four J-6 units with one green Framed Leaf block and one each mint green, olive green and pur­ple mot­tled Leaf blocks.

9. Ar­range and join the blocks and units to com­plete Unit 2 as shown in Fig­ure 14, press­ing seams in the di­rec­tions shown by ar­rows in the draw­ing. Re­peat to make a sec­ond Unit 2.

10. Se­lect two J-4 units and one each dark pur­ple and gold Framed Leaf blocks.

11. Ar­range and join the blocks and units to com­plete Unit 3 as shown in Fig­ure 15, press­ing seams in the di­rec­tions shown by ar­rows in the draw­ing. Re­peat to make a sec­ond Unit 3.

12. Se­lect two J-4 units and one each red and chest­nut Framed Leaf blocks.

13. Ar­range and join the blocks and units to com­plete Unit 4 as shown in Fig­ure 16, press­ing seams in the di­rec­tions shown by ar­rows in the draw­ing. Re­peat to make a sec­ond Unit 4.

14. Ar­range and join the pieced units and J16 unit in rows re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 17 to com­plete the pieced cen­ter; press seams in di­rec­tions shown by ar­rows in the draw­ing.

COM­PLET­ING THE QUILT

1. Draw a di­ag­o­nal line through the cen­ter on the wrong side of each re­main­ing I square.

2. Place an I square right sides to­gether with each re­main­ing H square and stitch 1/4" on each side of the marked line, cut apart on the marked line and press the H-I units open to make a to­tal of 88 H-I units (eight of each of 11 col­ors).

3. Se­lect one of each color H-I unit to to­tal 11 units and join to make an H-I strip as shown in Fig­ure 18; press seams in one di­rec­tion. Re­peat to make a to­tal of four pieced strips.

4. Re­peat step 3 to com­plete four re­versed pieced strips, again re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 18.

5. Sew an N strip to the dark-fab­ric side of each pieced strip as shown in Fig­ure 19; press seams to­ward N strips.

6. Mark a di­ag­o­nal line on four J squares; place a marked J square right sides to­gether with an L square and stitch on the marked lines. Trim seams to 1/4" and press J to the right side as shown in Fig­ure 20.

7. Re­peat step 6 on the re­main­ing cor­ners of L to com­plete a J-L unit as shown in Fig­ure 21.

8. Re­peat steps 6 and 7 to com­plete a to­tal of four J-L units.

9. Join M strips on short ends to make a long strip; press seams open. Sub­cut strip into four 481/2" M strips.

10. Join a pieced strip and a re­versed pieced strip with a J-L unit, and add an M strip to make a side strip as shown in Fig­ure 22; press seams away from the J-L units.

11. Sew O and then Q to P to make a cor­ner unit as shown in Fig­ure 23; press seams to­ward O and then Q. Re­peat to make a to­tal of four cor­ner units

12. Sew a side strip to op­po­site sides of the pieced cen­ter with N strips on the outer edges re­fer­ring to the Place­ment Di­a­gram; press seams to­ward side strips.

13. Sew a cor­ner unit to each end of each re­main­ing side strip to make the top strip as shown in Fig­ure 24; press seams away from the cor­ner units. Re­peat to make the bot­tom strip. Sew these strips to the top and bot­tom of the pieced cen­ter; press seams to­ward strips.

14. Join the U strips on short ends to make one long strip; press seams open. Sub­cut strip into four 581/2" U strips. Re­peat with R strips to make four 581/2" R strips.

15. Sew a U strip to an R strip with right sides to­gether along length; press seams to­ward U strips. Re­peat to make a to­tal of four U-R strips.

16. Draw a di­ag­o­nal line on the wrong side of the two S squares; place each marked square right sides to­gether with a T square and stitch 1/4" on each side of the marked lines. Cut apart on the marked lines and press open with seams to­ward T to com­plete four S-T units as shown in Fig­ure 25.

17. Sew a U-R strip to op­po­site sides of the pieced cen­ter; press seams to­ward U-R strips.

18. Sew an S-T unit to each end of each re­main­ing U-R strip; press seams to­ward the U-R strips. Sew these strips to the top and bot­tom of the pieced cen­ter; press seams to­ward strips.

19. Join the W strips on short ends to make one long strip; press seams open. Sub­cut strip into four 631/2" W strips. Re­peat with the Y strips to make four 631/2" Y strips.

20. Sew a W strip to a Y strip to make a W-Y strip; press seam to­ward W. Re­peat to make a to­tal of four W-Y strips.

21. Draw a di­ag­o­nal line on the cor­ner of each V square; place a V square on one cor­ner of an X square and stitch on the marked line. Trim seam to 1/4" and press V to the right side to com­plete a V-X unit as shown in Fig­ure 26. Re­peat to make a to­tal of four V-X units.

22. Sew a W-Y strip to op­po­site sides of the pieced cen­ter; press seams to­ward W-Y strips.

23. Sew a V-X unit to op­po­site ends of each re­main­ing W-Y strip re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 27 for po­si­tion­ing of the V-X units; press seams to­ward W-Y strips. Sew these strips to the top and bot­tom of the pieced cen­ter; press seams to­ward W-Y strips.

24. Join the Z/ZZ strips on the short ends to make one long strip; sub­cut strip into two 711/2" Z strips and two 821/2" ZZ strips.

25. Sew Z strips to op­po­site sides and ZZ strips to the top and bot­tom of the pieced cen­ter to com­plete the quilt top; press seams to­ward Z and ZZ strips.

26. Cre­ate a quilt sand­wich re­fer­ring to Quilt­ing Ba­sics on page 110. 27. Quilt as de­sired. 28. Bind edges re­fer­ring to Quilt­ing Ba­sics on page 110 to fin­ish.

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