Mooring Security

Many production sailboats have inadequate cleats and bow chocks

Many production boats come equipped with undersized cleats and poorly designed line chocks. The 10in aluminum cleats that came standard on my Pearson 40 have served satisfactorily for more than 30 years. But as I have outfitted the boat for extended offshore passagemaking, I have upgraded from ⅝in dock lines and anchor rodes to ¾in for an extra margin of safety. I also wanted the ability to secure more than one line on a cleat to give me more mooring and docking flexibility. The original cleats were insufficient to handle two ⅝in lines, let alone the new ¾in docklines. I needed to replace them.

After reviewing the various cleats available, I decided to install Schaefer Marine’s investmentcast 12in stainless cleats. Not only are they much stronger than the aluminum cleats they’re replacing, they would improve the look of my boat. I also decided to replace the standard aluminum chocks with Schaefer’s stainless XCL chocks. Bow chocks, in particular, are subjected to massive loads from anchor rodes or docklines in a rough harbor or during storms.

Installing new cleats and chocks is a relatively simple project, as long as you can get access to the deck space underneath to remove and replace the fasteners. For me this was relatively easy, although it required emptying some lockers and removing some under-deck trim. With the help of a friend, I was also able to remove the old hardware quickly and begin the replacement process.

The first step was to fill the old fastener holes. Since the bolt pattern for the old cleats and chocks was different from the new bolt pattern, I needed to plug them with epoxy to prevent water ingress. As a first step I took a slightly oversized drill and “reamed out” the old holes to remove any residual bedding compound and expose clean deck core material inside the hole. I also countersunk the tops and bottoms of the holes to allow the epoxy to spread out. Next, I sealed the bottom of the holes with duct tape before pouring unthickened epoxy into them—unthickened because I want the epoxy to easily penetrate into the core material and fill any voids. I tried to fill the holes to the top without going over the edges. This will permanently seal the hole.

The next step was to determine the cleat placement and drill holes. In most cases you will simply install the new cleat where the old one were. It is

install the backing plates. Just as the cleats on many boats are too small, so too the backing plates are often woefully inadequate: thus the many tales of bow cleats pulling right out of boats under tow. I always try to use oversized backing plates on any hardware that may be subject to severe loads. This will spread the load across a wide area and reduce the possibility of deck structure failure or leaking.

For my new cleats I chose to fabricate massive ¼in thick, 6in-by8in aluminum backing plates—probably overkill, but I will never be concerned about the cleats pulling out of the deck. After drilling the holes, dry fit the cleats and chocks with their backing plates to make sure everything fits and that you are able to turn a wrench sufficiently to tighten the nuts. Lightly draw an outline around the cleat or chock with a pencil. This will show where you will need to spread bedding compound during installation. After that remove the cleats and chocks and prepare for final installation.

Cleats and chocks can be installed with any good quality bedding

My Chicago-based S2 y.2A has a worn epoxy bottom. The boat shows no signs of blistering, and I have no speed issues as this is strictly a family cruiser. However, I worry that I should do something for the long term. The remaining paint does not flake at all; how much sandingo prep do I need to do before slapping more epoxy on top? I am not looking for a massive job, one I can do myself would be best, as I have a feeling if done at the yard it would be quite expensive. DON CASEY REPLIES As a general rule, I am rarely in favor of suffering the expense andoor effort of an owner-added barrier coat absent any indication of blistering. Presumably your boat is stored half of the year and sails mostly in cold or cool water, both circumstances acting in your favor to limit blister potential. I also wonder what you mean by “worn epoxy bottom.” If the bottom is mostly still covered with some vestige of bottom paint, I would just renew the paint. If you are intent on a fresh barrier coat, then all of the bottom paint must come off. Otherwise, aside from interfering with the adhesion of the epoxy, the paint residue becomes “foreign matter” with negative implications for the effectiveness of the fresh barrier.

I hear many conflicting stories about MMSI numbers, and the dilemma of some radios that won’t overwrite a previous owner’s MMSI number on the screen. What is the straight scoop?

GORDON WEST REPLIES

MMSI and Coast Guard telecommunications issues are continuously addressed by the Radio Technical Commission for Maritime services (rtcm.org). Federal Communications Commission public Notice DA 12 1y8y, issued almost two years ago, also provides good facts, leading to unrealistic answers to the current MMSI “mess of questions.” You are correct that current VHF radios may not easily overwrite an older MMSI number issued to the boat’s previous owner; contact the manufacturer or a local electronics dealer to see what needs to be done. The point I want to make here, though, is that even an old number is better than no MMSI in the radio. Without that number, your marine VHF cannot send out a digital mayday. Of course, you can still yell for help on VHF Channel 16. There are added issues, such as a Boat US MMSI number already stored in your VHF radios, and a different MMSI included on the new ship station license from the FCC for your new SSB radio and new AIS, that or a tender with its own AIS. But again, having any MMSI number will allow for a digital DSC callout. The US Coast Guard’s Rescue 21 system now includes shore-based automatic direction finding equipment. Any MMSI number with equipment tied into GPS will give the Coast Guard an immediate position fix, even though the MMSI number does not immediately come up on the FCC database when accessed by Coast Guard. Bottom line: make sure all of your DSC capable equipment

has an MMSI showing on the screen. No MMSI programmed in your gear? Get a number.

I’ve read in a number of places about the dangers of water getting up into the exhaust system of an auxiliary diesel via the through-hullodischarge. How can I be sure this won’t happen to my boat? How can I tell if I’m in danger of having something like that happen to my engine? And if I am in danger, how can I rectify the situation?

NIGEL CALDER REPLIES

Assuming your engine is installed below the waterline and your seawater engine cooling circuit discharges into your exhaust—which is the case on almost all sailboats—there are two ways for water to get into the engine. Either it can come from the raw-water intake side, or it can come from the exhaust side. On the raw-water intake side, the circuit runs from the through-hull and seacock to a rubber impeller water pump, through your engine heat exchanger and maybe one or more additional heat exchangers, and then into the exhaust. The whole circuit is below the waterline, so without some sort of a check valve, when the engine is shut down the water can keep flowing, filling up the exhaust system and backing up into the engine. The rubber vanes on the raw water pump act as a check valve, but if they get damaged (which they often do, without this being noticed) water can flow past them. To stop the flow, we raise the raw-water hose above the waterline at some point and put another valve at the top of the loop: a siphon break. When the engine is shut down, the weight of water in the hoses on either side of this valve causes the valve to be sucked open, allowing the water to drain down to the level of the boat’s waterline. This admits a pocket of air at the top of the hose loop. Once the air is there the water will no longer flow.

On the exhaust side, as you note, waves driving up the back of the boat when the engine is shut down can fill the exhaust system until the water backs up into the engine: something that has happened to many a sailboat on an ocean crossing. To prevent this, we loop the exhaust hose up under the deck well above the waterline and then angle it back down to the exit fitting. The exhaust hose loop has to be high enough that water driving up the back of the boat cannot make its way over the top of the loop. However, if a boat has relatively low freeboard, sometimes you can get into really large following seas that barrel past the boat more or less at deck level. These, in turn, may shove a slug of water over that loop as each wave comes past, slowly filling the exhaust until it floods the engine. If this is a possibility, it is a good idea to fit a seacock at the exhaust and to close this when sailing offshore. (Obviously if you forget to open it you will not be able to restart your engine, although it won’t do any damage.) Note that the seacock must not narrow down the exhaust diameter, as this will cause back pressure at high engine loads, which will impair performance. Another way to keep the water out is to fit into the run of the exhaust hose a device known as a water separator, which acts as a giant siphon break on the exhaust side.

Chartering with people who have never done it before? No problem, so long as you consider their needs, interests, fears, budgets and passions. It’s also important to remember that it’s their vacation too. Even if you’re an old pro with multiple charters under your belt, new people have no idea what to expect, and you’ll need to make accommodations to keep a happy boat.

CONSIDER THE LOCATION Discuss your crew’s expectations and choose a location together. If they hate to be cold, hot, seasick or stuck solely aboard a boat, you’ll have to choose cruising grounds that make sense for the guests aboard. If the priority is sightseeing and shopping, remote anchorages with little opportunity to go ashore will not work. If they get seasick easily, long upwind passages will be no fun. And if your crew just wants to relax with cocktails, plentiy of cultural activities will be less in demand than a swim-up bar in a tropical locale. When you are dealing with couples, make sure you ask each individual what they need to make a successful vacation, and don’t just let one speak for both or there’s bound to be trouble.

CONSIDER THE BOAT

Some people don’t mind roughing it while others can’t survive without air conditioning, twice daily showers and a hair dryer. Review the amenities (and the tankage) on your charter vessel and discuss what is or is not likely to be aboard. Also, if your people are not used to sailing, living in close quarters, or are prone to seasickness, consider a catamaran. Multihulls provide more room so couples can enjoy their own cabin and head, and the motion is often a little easier with less heeling and therefore less upset stomachs and general nervousness. Inquire at the base as to the age of the boats too, as that will give you some idea of their condition and equipment.

CONSIDER A CAPTAIN If your experience is light, you may want a professional captain aboard to run the vessel so you don’t have to be stressed by the experience. A charter captain’s local knowledge will help you find the most interesting anchorages, and steer you away from tourist traps and any navigational hazards. Even if you have lots of experience, you may prefer to enjoy your family and friends, and not have to worry about managing the vessel as well as all the personalities aboard.

DON’T RUSH

An overly ambitious itinerary is almost always a recipe for disaster, as people feel rushed to visit multiple destinations without really experiencing any of them fully. The number of places you’ll visit will depend on how far apart they are, how much there is to do at each spot, and how much time your crew wants to spend aboard and underway. Many new sailors feel that chartering is all about the sailing, but non-sailors look forward to more of a comprehensive vacation rather than sail camp.

DON’T FORGET THE KIDS Kids can complicate or enhance a charter, and they will make you embrace a different itinerary than if you had only adults onboard. (For instance, children will likely get a lot less joy out of cocktail hour!) When chartering with kids, remember that for the most part, they’re not self-entertaining. Consider their ages and their preferred activities. Ask the charter base for additional equipment like mask/snorkel/ fins, kayaks and water toys. For evenings when the adults want to have sundowners in the cockpit, a TV/DVD and a few movies can make for a peaceful boat. Mostly, remember that you’re vacationing with your kids, so get them involved and show them how to sail, anchor, snorkel or run a dinghy. They’ll be much more enthusiastic.

DON’T MAKE IT LIKE CAMPING

Even if it’s glamping (glamour camping), life aboard can be like camping, which might not be everybody’s cup of tea. Unless you have someone aboard who loves to cook and clean up, make provisions to eat out a couple of times during the charter. Also, provide plenty of water for the crew to take showers. Nobody likes to feel dirty, sticky and itchy on their vacation. Finally, before anyone even steps onboard, discuss a budget with everyone and how to share expenses. People have different priorities for their money, so be respectful of their wishes and needs.

You can’t please everyone, but managing expectations beforehand and planning ahead can make a real difference when chartering with people new to this kind of vacationing. If you do it right, it may result in having plentiful crew for future trips, and remember, you were new once too. s

Zuzana Prochazka holds a 100-ton Coast Guard liscense and cruises Southern California aboard Indigo, a Celestial 48

$629,000 $485,000

44 New York 32 Replica 1940 .............................. $44,500 42 Trintella Ron Holland 2000 .......................... $259,000 42 Alpha Catamaran 2014 .................................. $449,900 42 Catalina MKII ‘07, ‘08............2 from ..............$179,000 42 Endeavour 1985 ................................................ $87,000 42 Southerly 42RST 2010 ................................. $485,000 42 Tatoosh 1982 ................................................... $120,000 42 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey DS 2007 ................. $199,000 42 Island Packet 420 2001 ................................ $295,500 41 IP SP Cruiser MKI 2010 ................................. $369,000 41 Bristol 41.1 CC 1981 .......................................... $135,000 41 Morgan Out Island 1988 ................................... $79,500 40 Bayfield 40 Ketch 1984 .................................. $85,000 40 Island Packet ‘94, ‘96............3 from ............ $152,500 40 Block Island 40 1997 ...................................... $189,900 40 Maestro 2006 ................................................ $264,900 38 Island Packet 38 1998 .................................... $138,000

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