5mustards, 5ways to make just about any food better

I have amustard problem. At any given point there are about a halfdozen bottles and jars of the stuff inmy fridge. And that’s not counting the ground and whole seeds squirreled away inmy cupboards.

But this isn’t gardenvariety hoarding, folks. Mustard, in itsmultitude of configurations, is one of the easiest andmost effective ways to liven up just about any dish. A pinch of the ground stuff inmac and cheese, a swirl of Dijon in a pan sauce, a scoop of whole seeds in a jar of pickles — if you’re making something, there’s a good chance you canmake it better withmustard.

This week I’m going to highlight five types ofmustard I’d rather not live without.

Dijonmustard: This is my go-to for pan sauces. They can be smooth (which I prefer) or coarse with crunchy bits ofmustard seed. I’ve been loyal to Trader Joe’s house brand Dijonmustard for years, but most varieties have a similar flavor profile of mustard, vinegar and white wine.

After you’ve seared a steak or pork chop, swirl a spoonful of Dijonmustard into the skillet along with a couple pats of butter. Pour in a bit of stock or wine, and use that to scrape up anything stuck to the pan. Let it reduce until thickened and pour that golden goodness over the perfectly browned meat.

Groundmustard: This is amust any time you want to add the pungent bite of mustard without bringing in extra moisture or the tang of vinegar that’s present in most preparedmustards. It’s useful in any kind of creamy or cheesy sauce. Think fettuccine Alfredo, mac and cheese, and any place hollandaise sauce shows up.

Groundmustard is also a great addition to any dry rub you’d use on pork or chicken. It serves well as an emulsifier in vinaigrettes. And if you’re feeling particularly ambitious, it’s the foundation formaking your own prepared mustards at home.

Spicy brownmustard: Sometimes called deli mustard, this ismy favorite for dressing just about any kind of hot dog or sausage, sandwich, burger or other thing in which the fiery heat of themustard will be tempered by the chew of bread. I grew up on the widely available Gulden’s brand and will always have a soft spot for it, but I have come to enjoy H-E-B’s house version since moving to Texas.

Whole grainmustard: When you want a little texture along withmustard’s bite, this is the jar to reach for. I prefer whole grainmustards that are made with whole seeds exclusively and not with any groundmustard. Lakeshore’s version made with a splash of Irish whiskey, vinegar and a bit of sugar has beenmy favorite lately (look for it at Central Market.)

Try stirring this into your mayonnaise-based potato or pasta salads to add a fun, crunchy pop. A dollop of the stuff also makes an attractive garnish on top of hors d’oeuvres such as deviled eggs or open-faced finger sandwiches.

Yellowmustard: It’s an all-American staple. This is the onemustard that won’t trigger tantrums in picky kids or pique fits of passion from that annoying foodie cousin. If you’re having a cookout with a wide range of appetites and palates, accept no substitutes.

This is also themustard to reach for when you want a dish to visually scream “mustard.” Because it’s made with a large quantity of turmeric powder, everything it touches from pan sauces to coleslaw to potato salad will take on that distinctive yellowmustard glow.

Chicago Tribune file photo Yellow mustard is an all-American must-have for any backyard cookout.