Mind the jalapeños atNico’s pizzeria

Tried-and-true pie joint shines with The Nico

A part-time job and the love of pizza turned into a business for the Fuss family.

Located off Blanco Road across from Camp Bullis, Nico’s Pizzeria made its debut in 2019, taking over the space from the former Mario’s Pizza. It’s named after Nico Fuss, the son of owner Alicia Fuss. Nico learned the art of slinging pies by working at Mario’s, and continues to do so as the house chef.

Nico’s is a tried-and-true pizza joint with no frills. There are a few tables, but it’s mostly built to get in, get out and enjoy your pizza at home. Add on an order of chicken wings, house salad, breadsticks or some dessert if you wish, but that’s about it.

The crackerlike crust has toppings all the way out to the edge, and cheese that sometimes flows over it. So for those crustcutters out there, you can take the day off. It’s an approach that works, with slices that focus on the toppings and don’t fill you up as if you ate a pound of dough.

Best pizza: When a pizzeria’s eponymous pie is this good, it’s worth crowing about. The Nico ($18.95 for a 10-inch) was carried by the light spice of the sliced meatballs, pepperoni and the chunks of smoky bacon and prosciutto that were countered perfectly with five solid scoops of warm ricotta cheese and a house marinara that leans to the sweet side. The crunchy veggie topper of chopped onion and green peppers had purpose, keeping the pizza from getting too greasy. And the thin crust held firm.

Other pizzas: The Blanco ($17.95 for a 10-inch) stays true to its name and is the only Alfredo sauce-based pizza on the menu. It came with a heavy hand of toppings that put the focus on the crumbled pork sausage that tasted like it came right out of a cast iron skillet, with just enough chunked white meat chicken to keep it from transforming into a full-blown pork pie. Freshly chopped basil helped cut the richness of the garlicy sauce.

The Margherita ($12.95 for a 10-inch) is an Italian classic, and Nico’s version tasted like a summer garden with what looked like a pint of vine-ripened cherry tomatoes spread throughout.

Jalapeños are always a gamble — how hot will they be? — and on my visit they busted a traditional Veggie Lover’s ($13.95 for a 10inch). Each bite was like swallowing the sun. None of the other vegetables — the mushrooms, spinach, bell peppers, olives and red onion — had a chance to come through.

Chuck Blount / Staff The Nico is the signature pizza at Nico's Pizzeria, located on Blanco Road near Camp Bullis.