Loading up on squash in all its varieties? You’llwant some newrecipes to sample

As a country, we unite over squash. Seriously, we do. It’s called pumpkin. From pie to quick breads, pancakes and more, we lap up the subtle, sweet flavor. Even its seeds have fans.

However, most of us don’t think of pumpkin as squash.

This diverse group of fruits of various members of the gourd family come in all shapes, sizes, color and patterns, including pumpkins, butternut, Hubbard, spaghetti, acorn and buttercup.

Every fall, I stock up on goodlooking varieties at farmers markets, farm stands and grocery stores. They look great as an arrangement on the kitchen counter. But make no mistake: I really want to cook these beauties!

I occasionally make my mother’s version of acorn squash: Baked wedges dripping in butter and brown sugar. But, it’s the savory goodies I can make with these naturally sweet winter species that really motivate. Stuffed, pureed, mashed, roasted, steamed, creamed, baked and grilled — almost any cooking method works. Just avoid boiling squash — it tends to turn to watery mush.

This fall, a relatively new addition to the produce selection, the Honeynut, enchants. Similar in shape to a butternut (but about half the size), this hybrid is a cross between a butternut and a buttercup. I find it to be sweeter than either of those, with a tender orange pulp that cooks relatively quickly. It makes a delicious steamed side dish topped simply with butter, or a beautifully textured soup. Pureed, I serve it dolloped with plain yogurt and a little maple syrup for breakfast.

Most squash are interchangeable in most recipes. Just think about the peel — some, such as the buttercup, have peels tender enough to eat cooked. Others, such as acorn, Hubbard, pumpkin, kabocha and red kuri, have peels that stay unpleasantly tough and need to be removed either before or after cooking.

When the squash is too difficult to peel easily, (such as Hubbard and kabocha), I cut it into chunks, remove the seeds and put the chunks into a microwave-safe baking dish. Add about ½ inch of water to the dish and cover it tightly. Microwave on high, turning the pieces occasionally, until fork-tender. When the squash has cooled, the peel will come off easily with a small knife.

I make double and triple batches of this Honeynut leek soup so I have plenty to package and drop off for friends and family. The soup reheats nicely and also freezes (without the garnishes) just fine for the cold weather ahead. Serve the soup plain as a first course to holiday meals. Or, top it with all the garnishes and pass some hot, cheesy quesadillas for a great comfort dinner any day of the week.

The squash and sweet potato hash that follows makes a fabulous side dish for Thanksgiving dinner. Or, serve it topped with a fried egg and slices of smoky ham for a Sunday brunch treat.

Vicuschka / Getty Images Squashes, a diverse group of members of the gourd family, come in all shapes, sizes, colors and patterns, including pumpkins, butternut, Hubbard, spaghetti, acorn and buttercup.