Loaded fries offer a big assist at Malik’s

MVPs outshine good-enough sandwiches

I love everything about a cheesesteak. The crispy, buttered hoagie roll with the sizzling chopped onions, the hearty scoop of thinly chopped steak topped, the cheese — even Cheez Whiz. It’s a sandwich that is distinctly American and gives Philadelphia more notoriety than anything outside of the fictional heavyweight boxing champion Rocky Balboa.

Malik’s Philly’s Phamous Cheesesteaks got its start more than 15 years ago as a brick-andmortar restaurant at the Alamo Quarry Market. It was the brainchild of Malik Rose, who played with the San Antonio Spurs from 1997-2005 and won a few NBA championships.

He grew up in Philadelphia and had a desire to share and eat those childhood memories here in S.A. Because why not? Everyone loves cheesesteaks.

Malik’s brick-and-mortar has been closed for years, but the menu lives on in two food trucks. We visited the truck parked at O’Connor Road near Interstate 35.

Outside of a modest kids menu that includes a grilled cheese sandwich, pizza and a hot dog, it’s still all about the cheesesteaks and fries at Malik’s. Choose steak or chicken 11 different ways (one’s a salad) with different types of cheeses, as well as five variations on fries.

Best dish: The Cheesy Bacon Ranch Phries ($8) were the true fried-flavor standout at this cheesesteak outlet. They come loaded with glorious cheese, enough bacon to add that salty pork flavor and just enough kiss of ranch with every bite. Forget side status — these are entree FRIES, served extra crispy, that you eat with a fork.

Other dishes: Malik’s menu suggests adding green peppers and mushrooms (50 cent addons) to The Original ($8 for a medium), and who am I to argue with an NBA champ? It came with plenty of chopped

steak and diced onions, but it could have used a little more of that white American cheese for balance. The hoagie roll was hard on the outside, soft on the inside and did a good job of keeping the often messy cheesesteak experience contained as I wolfed it down in my truck.

You can’t have a proper cheesesteak experience without Cheez Whiz. The San Antonio ($6.50 for a small) loads the spreadable concoction deep into the bread, then tops it with a hearty pile of rib-eye steak, grilled chunks of white onion

and just enough pickled jalapeño to make it a party.

The truck operator said the pico de gallo used in the Southwest Philly ($7 for a small) was chopped mere moments before I came to the window, and the chunks of tomato and onion were obviously fresh. The chipotle mayo added a spicy kick and layer of flavor to the steak.

All Malik’s sandwiches have the option steak or chopped chicken. Stick with the steak.

The chicken in the Pizza Steak ($7.50 for a small) tasted more like bland filler meat, allowing the pepperoni and

marinara sauce to take over.

Overall, Malik’s isn’t the best Philly cheesesteak I’ve had in San Antonio, but it’s good enough to justify pulling over and getting one for the road whenever you’re in the neighborhood and have an itch for East Coast flavor.

Photos by Chuck Blount / Staff Chipotle mayo adds a spicy kick and layer of flavor to the Southwest Philly.

Two Malik’s Philly’s Phamous Cheesesteaks food trucks operate in the San Antonio area.