San Antonio Express-News (Sunday)
Kolaches with a San Antonio twist
To San Antonians, getting good kolaches means a road trip, likely cruising up Interstate 35 to the famous Czech Stop in the town of West. Now, one new San Antonio business is saving us the drive.
Bexar Kolaches opened a small retail shop near Olmos Park at the intersection of East Hildebrand and McCullough avenues in mid-January. It’s well-stocked with traditional Czech-style kolaches and klobasneks. The former is a sweet pastry of dough filled with fruit, and the latter is a more savory snack of sausage and other fillings wrapped in the same dough as kolaches, although they’re often both referred to as “kolaches” in Texas.
The traditional pastries are great, but what’s truly outstanding here are the Puro San Antonio Kolaches, as the shop calls them. This lineup includes sweet pastries loaded with prickly pear cactus jelly or Mexican-style chocolate laced with chile.
There’s also savory kolaches filled with sausage, jalapeño and cream cheese; Texas caviar (black-eyed peas, peppers, onions and queso fresco); or migas (eggs, tomato, jalapeño, tortilla chips and cheddar cheese).
All these Puro San Antonio specialties delivered bold and fun flavors swaddled in a tender, slightly sweet dough that both complemented the sweet fillings and provided a welcome contrast to the savory options. Heck, if they sold their migas and Texas caviar fillings by the pound, I’d gladly buy those on their own.
Bexar Kolaches, 205 E. Hildebrand Ave., 361-878-8355 bexarkolaches.com or Facebook: @bexarkolaches. Takeout only. Hours: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.