San Antonio Express-News (Sunday)

Cabbage is always there for you; here’s how to give it the respect it deserves

- By Aaron Hutcherson

All hail the mighty cabbage. Popular all over the world — think Southern-style braised cabbage, spicy fermented kimchi, stuffed cabbage rolls, tart sauerkraut, and creamy and crisp coleslaws — cabbage can just about do it all.

In addition to its low cost and lengthy fridge life span, it is packed with vitamin C and other nutrients. Roman historian Cato the Elder (234-149 B.C.) wrote, “It is the cabbage which surpasses all other vegetables,” in reference to its medicinal value.

While cabbage has been consumed for millennia, the vegetable’s popularity has risen recently amid the pandemic, and now it’s time to delve deeper. Whether you’re already quite familiar with cabbage or just becoming acquainted, here’s what you need to know to get the most from this versatile vegetable.

Get to know the varieties. One of the earliest text references to cabbage comes from the Greek philosophe­r Theophrast­us (371-287 B.C.), the “father of botany,” who noted different types. Today, there’s the familiar green cabbage you’ve likely seen in the produce aisle, along with the visually stunning red variety.

I adore Savoy for its beautifull­y textured leaves. Napa cabbage is a delight in its subtlety. And bok choy, sometimes referred to as “Chinese cabbage,” can be found big or small (baby) with loose, deep green leaves. These are perhaps the most common, but there are hundreds of varieties in all manner of shapes, sizes and textures depending on classifica­tion.

“Cabbage” comes from the French “caboche,” meaning head, and is often

This pantry-friendly recipe comes together in about an hour, making it a great weeknight dinner option.

8 ounces loose hot Italian sausage 4 tablespoon­s extra-virgin olive oil,

divided

1 small head green cabbage (about 2 pounds), quartered, cored and thinly sliced

1 medium yellow onion (about 7

ounces), thinly sliced

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to

taste

½ teaspoon freshly ground black

pepper, plus more to taste 2 (15.5-ounce) cans white beans, such as cannellini, great Northern or navy, drained and rinsed

½ cup heavy cream

½ cup (2 ounces) plain breadcrumb­s ½ cup packed (1 ounce) finely grated

Parmesan cheese

Chopped fresh parsley leaves, for

serving (optional)

Instructio­ns: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 425 degrees.

In a large skillet, preferably castiron, combine the sausage with 2 tablespoon­s of oil. Set the skillet over medium heat and cook, breaking the meat apart with a spoon until the fat has been rendered and the sausage is no longer pink, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer

to a plate, leaving behind the fat in the skillet.

Add the sliced cabbage and onion, in batches if necessary, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasional­ly, until softened, about 15 minutes.

Add the beans, heavy cream and the reserved sausage to the skillet and stir to combine. Taste and add additional salt and pepper if desired. (Transfer to a casserole dish if not using an oven-safe skillet.)

In a small bowl combine the breadcrumb­s, Parmesan and the remaining 2 tablespoon­s of oil. Sprinkle evenly over the cabbage mixture.

Bake for about 15 minutes until bubbling and lightly golden on top. Let cool slightly, sprinkle with the parsley, if using, and serve.

Notes: The dish can be made up until the topping part 1 day in advance and refrigerat­ed. To bake, top with the breadcrumb-Parmesan mixture and cook as instructed, adding a few more minutes to the time to account for the cold filling.

Leftovers can be refrigerat­ed for up to 3 days.

Makes 4-6 servings

From Aaron Hutcherson, Washington Post

 ?? Scott Suchman / For The Washington Post ?? Bok choy, green napa, savoy and red cabbages are the most popular varieties.
Scott Suchman / For The Washington Post Bok choy, green napa, savoy and red cabbages are the most popular varieties.
 ?? Scott Suchman / For The Washington Post ??
Scott Suchman / For The Washington Post

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