San Antonio Express-News (Sunday)

This old-school ham salad sandwich is the real deal for dill lovers

- By Ann Maloney

Make me a bowl of a chicken or tuna salad and I’m set for days. I love the ease of both and will happily eat them again and again scooped onto lettuce leaves, in sandwiches or on crackers for a quick meal on a busy day.

While ham salad is an oldschool recipe that’s been around forever, it had not earned a spot in my regular rotation until a grocery delivery gone awry led me to this version that I now find myself craving.

I recently ordered a 3-pound ham (or thought I did) from a grocery service, but ended up with 3 pounds of sliced ham — way too much for my household of two. Coincident­ally, the grocery’s only option for fresh dill was a huge bunch of the bright green herb, far more than I needed for the recipe for which it was intended.

So, I brought the two complement­ary flavors together and my new go-to meat salad was born.

The recipe is good to keep in your back pocket for when you have leftovers of the fragrant herb, which figures prominentl­y in pickling, of course, as well as in Mediterran­ean and Russian food. I never have a problem using it up because I love the flavor it adds to roasted vegetables, potato or egg salad as well as into soups and stews.

To enjoy this salad, however, you have to really dig dill’s grassy flavor as much as I do. Here, dill is not an accent, but a nearly equal partner to the ham. The recipe calls for three-quarters of a cup of dill fronds, but I’ve used more. The dill flavor increases after the salad has been refrigerat­ed for a day or two, which I love.

While fresh dill is essential to this recipe, the rest is open to interpreta­tion. You can use any quality ham you like, cured or uncured. The beauty of the thinly sliced ham is that you can finely chop it much more quickly than you can whole ham, so I recommend starting with that. That way there is no need for a food processor to get it very fine.

I wondered at my sudden craving for this dill-forward salad. Soon after making it, I read in “The Oxford Companion to Food” that the word dill is derived from the Old Norse dilla, meaning to lull and that dill water has been used for soothing babies.

Maybe herby dill dishes are just what we all need right now.

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