For Philly cheesesteak, go to New York

Menu offers something for everyone

Chef and owner Shawn Rasoully, a U.S. Army veteran, had had enough of the fast pace of New York City restaurant life, so he moved to San Antonio six years ago. That didn’t stop his Big Apple palate, though.

Rasoully thought the S.A. food truck scene could use some New York City street food, so he started the New York Grill Express three years ago. You’ll usually find it parked at the Point Park on Boerne Stage Road on the Northwest Side.

His menu hits mostly classic Greek and Mediterranean street foods, such as wraps, kabobs, gyros and rice bowls with lamb, chicken or beef. But also on the menu are the American classics: burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches and fried sides. The options make it family-friendly for all ages.

The portions here are big, so two items can easily feed three people, and the side salads are entree size. Plan on leftovers.

Best dish: I am helpless to resist ordering the Philly cheesesteak ($11.99 with fries) when I see it on a menu, and this was one of the best to date in San Antonio and beyond.

The buttery hoagie roll retained its crunchy texture, but the real selling point was the generous portions of thinly cut steak with the proper amount of char, and a blend of caramelized onions and bell peppers.

They use American cheese here instead of Phillypopular Cheez Whiz, but there was so much of it, it still won me over. This was a five-napkin experience.

Other dishes: Falafel ($9.99, served with rice and salad) is treated with respect at the New York Grill Express and is more of a full meal than an appetizer. Four come to an order, and they’re the size of jumbo eggs, with a crunchy shell protecting the fluffy interior with the texture of birthday cake.

The shaved lamb gyro that I’m used to eating comes with dilly tzatziki sauce and sliced

onion. The version here ($8.99) proved I’ve been eating at the wrong places. Served on warm pita bread, it was bursting with flavor from chopped cucumber, tomatoes, a heavy handful of green olives and banana peppers for good measure.

Consider the Opah Fries ($7.99), which come topped with lamb, chicken or a mixture of both (my order). Not too thin, not too thick, they are about the size of a standard pencil and are fried to extra crispy, then doused with seasoning salt and the same sauce used in the gyro.

The richness and seasoning of the lamb trumped the chicken chunks, which acted more like a flavor sponge than a true bonus ingredient.

The basic hummus and pita plate ($7.99) was too basic. The pita quarters were served cold, the hummus was gritty instead of rich and creamy, and overall it just felt uninspired compared to other menu items.

Photos by Chuck Blount / Staff The messy Philly cheesesteak at the New York Grill Express is one of the best in the city.

Four large falafel pieces come with rice and a large salad. The food truck also serves American favorites, such as hot dogs.