San Antonio Express-News (Sunday)

Mouth-puckering secret behind this easiest-ever lemon tart

- By Olga Massov

Although I’ve made many kinds of lemon tarts through the years, it took this assignment to arrive at my favorite version.

I wanted to crack the code on using a whole lemon, similar to one I’ve made for more than a decade based on Dorie Greenspan’s recipe in “Paris Sweets.” Instead of making lemon curd, you add the whole fruit (minus the seeds) and puree it with other filling ingredient­s. The tiny bits of lemon rind suspended in a smooth emulsion and the subtle bitterness imparted by the pith give the filling dimension and keep it from getting cloying.

Still, I knew I could improve on near-perfection. First, I tackled the crust, a fairly traditiona­l pâté sucrée, which has a buttery cookielike snap. I scaled back the sugar and found it still retained the desired crispness. A tablespoon of lemon zest gave the crust bright flavor, and a whole egg, rather than just a yolk, created a sturdier texture for easier rolling out. And as I contemplat­ed the sticky dough that stuck to even a well-floured counter, I decided that rolling it out between two pieces of parchment made for a less frustratin­g experience.

In approachin­g the filling, though I loved the simplicity of pureeing the whole lemon with butter, sugar and eggs, I wanted a more unabashedl­y lemony flavor. I found it in the same lemon that gave up its zest to the crust. Adding that second lemon to the filling delivered precisely the bright pucker I longed for.

My laziness served up a timesaving simplifica­tion when I decided to see what would happen if I threw cubed, cold butter into the food processor (the original recipe calls for the butter to be melted). The mixture came out curdled, which worried me, but I poured it into the crust and baked the tart anyway. The resulting texture was identical to the one made with melted butter.

In my final test, as I grew bolder and lazier still, I cut the butter into four pieces and it pureed just the same.

You can certainly argue that the easiest lemon tart is the one you buy at a bakery, but I implore you to try this one. It may

look like a fancy French dessert, but it’s blissfully forgiving and demands little baking proficienc­y.

 ?? Scott Suchman / For the Washington Post ?? This lemon tart is simpler to to make than it appears and is blissfully forgiving of lazy shortcuts.
Scott Suchman / For the Washington Post This lemon tart is simpler to to make than it appears and is blissfully forgiving of lazy shortcuts.

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