Fideo Seco

Tomatoes and chipotle chiles give this hearty plate of fideo a tart and smoky taste.

6 (about 1 1⁄2 pounds) ripe plum

tomatoes

2 cloves garlic, peeled

1⁄4 medium onion

2 tablespoons canned chipotles en adobo, minced, plus 1 teaspoon of the adobo sauce

1⁄2 teaspoon brown sugar or grated

piloncillo

3 tablespoons vegetable or

avocado oil, divided use 2 (5-ounce) packages fideo

noodles

1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more

to taste

1⁄2 cup crema Mexicana

1 cup crumbled queso fresco 1 avocado, peeled, pitted, and thinly

sliced

Instructions: Fill a medium saucepan 2⁄3 full with water and add the tomatoes. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat and cook until the tomatoes are softened, 7-10 minutes. The skins may split before the tomatoes are softened and that’s OK, just reduce the heat to low. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the tomatoes to a small bowl and let them cool for a few minutes. Reserve the pot of cooking water.

When the tomatoes have cooled, use your fingertips to slip off the skins as you hold each tomato over the bowl. Add the peeled tomatoes, along with any juices left in the bowl, to a blender with the garlic, onion and 1⁄2 cup reserved cooking water. Blend on high until very smooth, 2-3 minutes.

In another small bowl, mix together the minced chipotle, adobo sauce and brown sugar or grated piloncillo.

Add 1 tablespoon oil to a large skillet set over medium heat. When the oil is hot, scatter half the noodles in the pan, stirring almost constantly and reducing the heat if they brown too quickly, until the noodles are a deep golden brown, 4-6 minutes. Move the fideo to paper towels to drain. Wipe out the pan and repeat with 1 more tablespoon oil and the remaining noodles.

Wipe the pan clean once more and heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium to medium-low heat. When the oil is hot, carefully pour in the tomato puree (stand back as it may splatter) and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce no longer tastes of raw onion and garlic, 5-8 minutes. Stir in the chipotle paste and taste for seasoning. (Canned chipotle en adobo can vary in acidity, depending on the brand. Make sure to taste and, if desired, add a little more sugar or adobo sauce to make it sweeter or hotter.)

Add the fried noodles and cook over medium-low heat until they absorb nearly all the sauce, 3-5 minutes. Add 1⁄2 cup reserved cooking water from the tomatoes and cook until all the liquid is absorbed and the noodles are al dente, about 3 minutes longer. Taste the noodles, and if they’re still too crunchy or chewy for your taste, add more of the reserved cooking water in 1⁄4 cup increments, allowing the noodles to absorb the liquid before adding more.

Divide the cooked fideo among plates and garnish with the crema, crumbled cheese and avocado slices.

Makes 6 servings