Those 2 sauces on the table at every Indian restaurant

As exciting and satisfying as curries, biryanis and dosas are, the condiments are just as important to making every meal of Indian food memorable.

We usually see two of them on the table when visiting an Indian restaurant.

Those flavorful ubiquitous pools of green and brown sauces are two types of chutney, a broad term that includes scores of condiments made from a wide range of fruits, vegetables, spices and more. The word “chutney” itself is a relic of the British colonial period, modified from the Hindi word “chatni.”

Those condiments have a complex history that, according to some scholars, can be credited to the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in the 1600s.

As the lore goes, the ruler fell sick and was prescribed a diet of robust, fiery food that was still easy to digest. Thus was born chaat, which includes the mostly fried snack food we know today as samosas, pakoras and the like. And chutneys were key to those dishes.

Hari chutney, the green version you see on tables today, is generally made from mint and cilantro, often with a bit of chile burn. This chutney is an essential accompaniment to nearly all forms of chaat, where its verdant vegetal flavor provides a welcome contrast to the savory fried items often filled with lentils, potatoes or other hearty ingredients.

The darker brown concoction is imli chutney. It gets its signature tang from tamarinds and often is sweetened with dates or sugar. The sweet-and-sour flavor profile of this chutney makes it akin to put-it-on-everything ketchup or barbecue sauce, although imli chutney is traditionally used to punch up the flavors of chaat as well.

If you’re shopping in supermarkets, the only chutney you’ll probably come across is Major Grey’s, generally made from mango, raisins and other ingredients. That sticky, sweet and vinegary condiment has become the most popular form of chutney in the U.S.

Fortunately, in San Antonio, several grocers stock a wide selection of chutneys, including the classic cilantro-mint and tamarind varieties. My favorite shops include Himalayan Bazar at 8466 Fredericksburg Road, Manpasand International Food Market at 3727 Colony Drive and Ali Baba International Food Market at 9307 Wurzbach Road, all of which are on the city’s Northwest Side near Interstate 10 and Wurzbach Road.

File photo Chaat, or Indian snack foods, are often served with cilantro-mint and tamarind chutneys.