South India pudding light, milky, aromatic

Each state in India has its own sweet milky pudding. One of the oldest versions, payasam, is said to have originated in Kerala thousands of years ago.

My mother, Kamala, who came to South India as a refugee post-partition in 1947 from Karachi, developed a deep fondness for payasam.

What I love about payasam is that it is light, milky and not too sweet or creamy, unlike the richer, thicker rice puddings of the north. The addition of edible camphor gives it a distinctive aroma — feel free to substitute cinnamon or orange essence.

The final flourish of gheeroasted cardamom pods, cashews and pistachios adds a luxurious touch.

The pudding can be served warm, room temperature or cold.

Anita Jaisinghani is the chefowner of Pondicheri restaurant in Houston. Her website is india1948.com. Email: anita@pondicheri.com.

PAYASAM (SOUTH INDIA PUDDING)

• 4 cups whole milk

• 3⁄4 cup sugar

• 2 cups (roughly 100 grams) toasted vermicelli

• 1⁄4 teaspoon crushed edible camphor

• 2 tablespoons ghee • 10 to 12 cardamom pods, lightly crushed

• 1⁄2 cup cashews, toasted

• 1⁄2 cup pistachios, chopped Instructions: In a large stockpot over high heat, bring the milk and sugar to a boil.

Simmer for just 4 to 5 minutes.

Add the vermicelli and continue simmering the mixture for another 3 to 4 minutes or until the vermicelli appears cooked.

Turn off the heat when done, and while cooling, stir frequently to prevent a scum from forming on the top. Alternately, put a plastic wrap over the entire surface of the pudding until it is cool to the touch.

Make the topping:

In a small frying pan over high heat, warm the ghee.

Add the cardamom pods and cashews.

Cook for just a minute or so, then take the pan off the heat.

Stir in the pistachios and spoon the mixture over the pudding just before serving.

NOTES AND VARIATIONS

Edible camphor and toasted vermicelli, also called seviyan, are available in most Indian grocery stores.

You can substitute camphor with cinnamon or orange essence.

For a vegan iteration, use coconut milk, and fry the nuts and cardamom in coconut oil.

Half a cup of golden raisins can be added at the same time as the vermicelli. If doing so, reduce the sugar to cup.

Serves 4 to 6

Carolina Ayala/Contributor