San Antonio Express-News (Sunday)
Despite Yelp snub, S.A. makes a splash with its seafood
Another day, another list. And another snub for San Antonio.
Yelp recently published its 2024 list of Top 100 Seafood Spots, and the Alamo City was nowhere to be found in the lineup.
Big whoop.
While Texas did land a few seats at the table — most notably with Los Tortugo’s Seafood Market in Port Isabel hooking the No. 10 slot — it should come as no surprise landlocked San Antonio didn’t make the grade.
There’s a reason that whole “Beef Loving Texans” thing from the Texas Beef Council took off. While we have a few hundred miles of coastline — 367 miles, to be precise — we are, first and foremost, a state defined by our prairies and the cattle that roam it.
And then there’s how the list was compiled. As per Yelp: “We identified businesses in the seafood category on Yelp with a large concentration of reviews mentioning ‘seafood,’ then ranked those spots using a number of factors, including the total volume and ratings of reviews between January 1, 2001, and December 13, 2023. We included only 10 businesses per state for geographic diversity.”
In other words, only places that have been around for a while and/or amassed a substantial volume of reviews managed to crack the Yelp algorithm. And then those were whittled down by state to appeal to a broader range of readers.
I assure you, the average fish shack in California, Louisiana, Florida, Hawaii and other states with robust fishing industries could probably trump most Middle America restaurants on this reason alone: They have access to a wide range of fresh fish plucked directly from the deep, pristine waters of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans that doesn’t have to be trucked or air-lifted to the table.
The Yelp list did note a “trend toward Latin flavors” that placed a number of Mexican and Peruvian restaurants on its roster. It also mentioned an enduring demand for shellfish, particularly crab and lobster.
Oddly, not a single sushi specialist made the cut.
All that being said, San Antonio is no slouch in the seafood game. We have many chefs who know their way around a fillet and prove it every day. And they know where to get the good stuff.
You should, too. If you’re craving a seafood fix, try any of these four spots for a trip to the coast that won’t require hopping in your car or slathering on sunscreen.
El Bucanero: From fried fish platters to ceviche to beer cans dressed with marinated shrimp to the best damn fish taco in San Antonio, this spot has it all. If you’re craving seafood with a Mexican flair, this is the place to be. 13802 Embassy Road, 210-3330909, el-bucanero.com
Leche de Tigre: This spot near Southtown brings the bright and lively flavors of Peruvianstyle seafood to town with a refined touch. Start with the Nikkei, starring cubed yellowfin tuna marinated in citrus and tamarind along with fried sweet potato. You won’t regret it. 318 E. Cevallos St., 210-265-5933, lechede tigretx.com
Shiro Japanese Bistro: This isn’t just San Antonio’s best sushi restaurant. It’s San Antonio’s best restaurant, period, according to Express-News dining critic Mike Sutter. And you don’t get to sit on that throne without dishing up the freshest fish to be found. 107 W. Jones Ave., (no phone), shirossan.com
Silo Terrace Oyster Bar: For a seafood-centric fine-dining experience, you won’t beat this spot. The Tristan Island lobster tail and grilled Texas redfish with sweet potato hash are rock stars. If you’re feeling flush, go for the Chilled Seafood Platter loaded with shrimp, crab claws, oysters and king crab from the cold bar. 22211 Interstate 10 W., Suite 1210, 210-698-2002, silo elevatedcuisine.com