Send damaged trunk packing; mushroom a bad sign
Q: I’m growing several Shumard red oaks from acorns. I’ve wrapped their trunks as you have suggested. I’ve attached two photos of one I’d like to plant. You’ll see it has a section that has missing bark, but it’s been protected by the wrap and it really isn’t split like you describe. It also has a second trunk. I assume that won’t be a problem. Any suggestions?
A: Yes. You do not want two trunks coming off the same base just a few inches off the ground. If you want to plant this particular tree, I would trim away the trunk that has the damage.
Your photograph that shows the second trunk is slightly out of focus, but that trunk is boltupright and very vigorous. It will make a much better trunk in the long run.
Make your cut about half an inch above the juncture of the two trunks. You do not need to wrap the trunk of a young tree like this. It will acclimate to the sunshine on its own since its never had the protection of other trees in a nursery setting.
Q: I have planted several Needlepoint hollies in different areas. They are all hanging on, but they are not growing well. All get dappled sun, although there are live oaks around them. What can I do to get them to grow better?
A: That answer is relatively simple. Needlepoint (also known as Willowleaf hollies) are adapted to all of Texas, and they grow well in sun or shade. You need to add nitrogen fertilizer (the same as you use for your lawn) and water.
It’s my favorite intermediate holly. I have probably 40 of them in my rural landscape, and those are the only “secrets” to their success. But if you fail to water them properly, especially in their first few years, they can really stall out.
Q: When can I transplant a crape myrtle that I want to relocate to a better spot in my yard?
A: All transplanting of woody trees and shrubs should be done during the winter dormant season. That means mid-December through early February.
Q: This elm tree has been in our landscape for more than 20 years. Deer have damaged its trunk recently. I should have had a cage around it, but I did not. It is now protected. Do you think it will survive? Is there anything I can do now?
A: Looking at your photo, it appears that the damage is primarily on one side. If that’s the case, the tree will probably be able to heal. Since you have it protected now, about all you need to do is keep it watered properly and wait it out.
Q: About a month ago this mushroom started growing on the trunk of our oak tree. Is it harmful to the tree? Is there anything I can do to treat it?
A: This is a fungal conk, probably from the genus Ganoderma, although that’s not my field of expertise. I suggest you Google “university Ganoderma conk on oak” and look at the several matches.
The University of Massachusetts has a very complete explanation of how this mushroom growth indicates severe internal decay within the trunk and great likelihood that the trunk will blow over in a windstorm sometime in the coming years. It’s quite possible that all of this originated with that wound on the left side of your photo.
You should have a certified arborist look at it immediately, but odds are that you will need to have the tree taken down fairly soon.
Q: I recently cut a 3-inch limb off my live oak tree. I found a cavity filled with ants. I sealed the wound, but I don’t know what to do next. Any suggestions?
A: Ants won’t harm the tree. They are merely living in the space provided by the cavity. However, I am concerned with what might have allowed that cavity to develop. You need to be sure there is no active decay.
As you can see in one of the questions above, that kind of decay can lead to big problems later. You may want to have a certified arborist look at the tree.
Q: I planted this Near East crape myrtle more than a year ago. It has grown well, but I’m concerned that the weight of the flowers and seed heads this fall and next year might cause it to snap. I bought a steel stake. Should I drive it in along the trunk to secure it?
A: I don’t believe you will need to stake the tree. What you will need to do is encourage the third trunk to come up to the left to counterbalance the growth that is off to the right.
It probably will send up a shoot from the trunk that you can train next year. I see two small stems there now, but I’m not sure either of them is vigorous enough to do what I’m hoping you can accomplish.
In the meanwhile, I would probably use hand shears to remove some of the shoots that go off to the right, either partially or entirely. My goal would be to make the plant more columnar.
I don’t know if you’re aware, but Near East is one of the oldest named varieties of crape myrtles in the nursery trade. It dates back into the 1800s. What a lovely color. Nice choice!