San Diego Union-Tribune (Sunday)
Desert destinations
Arizona getaway at 2 resorts — Civana and Castle Hot Springs — proves to be needed reset to enter the new year with a new perspective
Before marrying my husband, Benjamin, I had a habit of setting New Year’s resolutions of lofty goals-turnedfaded letdowns. From publishing books to running marathons, those big dreams led to late nights, missed deadlines and self-inflicted exhaustion. A realist at heart, Benjamin taught me to crumple dateinduced ambitions and simply find motivation in myself rather than a flip of the calendar.
That is, until recently. Tiptoeing toward us was 2024 holding a mirror of tired reflections. Coffee was my fuel and bedtime was my bestie, as we juggled four jobs between the two of us. Oddly enough, we’re wired that way, taking on more than we should because we’re driven by ourselves.
And so, we ironed out that crumpled sheet of blankness and wrote in bold letters: “Relax. Rest. Recover. Reconnect. Rejuvenate. Restore.”
That was our goal, to get away for four days and come back new and improved.
Enter Arizona. The proximity to San Diego made the spontaneous getaway uncomplicated; not to mention, we heard of two properties that had the power to push the reset button on life.
Tucked into the untamed Sonoran
Desert, Civana Wellness Resort & Spa would start our path to wholeness, followed by Castle Hot Springs, which would continue our journey to healing in the foothills of the Bradshaw Mountains. We made a commitment to two nights at each resort to unplug
from the world and reconnect to ourselves.
Simplicity was our priority, not budget. And so, we flew via JSX hop-on jet service. As first timers, we learned that the public charter traveled to 40-plus destinations including Scottsdale. Gone were
the security lines, the crowded terminals and the hidden fees, meaning we could park and arrive just 20 minutes before takeoff. Included in the $279 ticket price were cocktails, Wi-fi, businessclass legroom and oversized baggage. Trust me, we were carrying some serious baggage (figuratively, of course).
The past year wrung us out, and now Arizona was hanging us out to dry with a bad start. Somehow the rental car agency had “sold out” of vehicles. For over two hours, we stood in line hoping for a set of wheels that would take us to utopia.
Mentally, I was at a dangerous place and on the verge of getting ugly, the type of ugly where my husband walks away and pretends
I’m a stranger. Stepping out of line, I went directly to the parking garage and showed an attendant our reservation. To my surprise, he handed us a set of keys and we seemed to be on our way — that is, until we were stopped five minutes later for potential car theft.
Back to the airport we went, waiting another 45 minutes for a vehicle we hadn’t reserved, costing double the original price. And of course, things got ugly. That’s when a text message arrived from our house sitter, informing me that my pet turkey had gone missing.
Teetering between anger and sadness, I had nothing to say. Traffic was at a standstill, we hadn’t eaten all day, and my prebooked meditation class was
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starting in five minutes.
And so, I bit down on my knuckles and screamed.
“Well, this is certainly off to a good start,” Benjamin said.
Everything I had aimed to quell was boiling at the surface, and now all I wanted to do was wash away the day.
Somehow, Civana sensed that, greeting me with a pool where I swam laps alone at sunset. Within minutes, I could feel the stress dripping off my body. The setting certainly helped, a 1960s midcentury modern hotel in a town appropriately named “Carefree.”
Originally designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s understudy, Joe Wong, the property resurrected in 2018 as Civana Wellness Resort. The $40 million dollar facelift was tight, with 144 neutral-toned rooms in stone, wood and glass reflective of the desert.
Never did I expect cactuses to be so aesthetically soothing, saluting the marbled sky and fading into the starry night. Webbing out from the 20-acre resort were pebble-framed trails that led to the cafe, restaurant, fitness studios and 22,000square-foot spa.
Boldly launching during the pandemic, Civana is clearly the cool kid on the block, luring wellness-focused millennials with its price point and mindset that self-love is OK.
Apparently, women got the memo. Bachelorette parties, girls’ getaways and sister retreats left my husband saying, “I feel very alone.”
In my opinion, that was actually the point, for us to be (or at least feel) alone in our united solidarity. Civana went out of its way to do that through their pillars of discovery and nourishment. Starting with the latter, we dined at Terras with mouths wide open during dinner of eggplant hummus, seared scallops and Faroe Island salmon.
“I think I need some carbs,” I whispered.
The veggie-forward menu had gluten-free, grain-free, dairy-free, and other “free” (not to be confused with “complementary”) options; an entrée alone runs about $50, but throw in the resort perks, and the price tag doesn’t seem so heavy.
Included in the $500 (plus or minus) nightly rate are bikes, hiking trails, wellness guides, aqua therapy and over 100 movement, personal growth and spiritual classes. I opted for yoga, cardio strength and “Band and Buns,” while Benjamin zenned out with breathwork, meditation and sound healing.
In true “us” form, we packed our schedules with classes and spa treatments. Of course, there were gardens and labyrinths to quiet the mind, open the heart and ground the body. Benjamin explored them. I did not, because I was too busy running to my next class. Like students on campus, we would wave in passing or meet up for lunch over smoothies and antioxidant bowls. Shaking my empty water bottle, I tapped my forehead.
“I already feel so hydrated ... Oh, look, they have hard kombucha!”
Despite our resolutions, we were on vacation after all — a time to let go, raise a glass and toast to the fact that we were reaping the benefits of our environment. Others got it, eating breakfast in bathrobes, sipping post-spa margaritas, and ditching workouts when suffering and leisure no longer aligned.
I was sad to leave Civana, having just awakened the 2.0 version of myself. As we packed the car for Castle Hot Springs, I felt healthy, alive and poised for what was next. During the hour drive, we passed spiny saguaro cacti, wild donkey and a world of Winnebagos. Tumbleweeds rolled across desert plains, as if each one had a destination and a deadline.
“Is this where they filmed ‘Breaking Bad’?” I asked.
My husband didn’t respond, but rather mumbled something about our rental car being put to the test. In our wake was a plume of dust, leaving behind any sign of civilization. Thoughts of his tire-changing
skills crossed my mind, along with my sudden desire to adopt a burro.
And then, there it was, an oasis thriving in the barrenness. Greeting us at parking was a valet who whisked us via golfcart through a private gate, down a palm tree-lined pathway, to Arizona’s first luxury resort. At the center of the 1,200-acre property were pools and ponds dotting manicured gardens and vibrant lawns so perfect, you’d swear you were living in an AI post.
Castle Hot Springs existed to help people come up, and then slow down with mindful activities, rugged nature and soft adventure. While rates were three times that of Civana, it was onesize-fits-all with an inclusive experience covering tours,
meals, gratuities, resort fees, in-room amenities, valet, cart service and endless activities. Hiking, archery, paddleboarding, biking, horseback riding, pickleball, gardening, stargazing, wine-tasting, yoga — you name it, and they had a personal guide to take you from adventure to relaxation.
The diamonds of this jewelry box, however, are the hot springs that have been replenishing souls since 1896. From members of the Yavapai Tribe who soaked for medicinal purposes, to the prospectors who sold the land to the Murphy brothers for development, word spread of the healing waters and fertile soil in the Bradshaw Mountains.
The Rockefellers, Wrigleys, Vanderbilts and Roosevelts
all escaped to this sanctuary of wellbeing, which pioneered Arizona’s first tennis courts, golf course and telephone. In 1943, it served as a military rehabilitation center for injured veterans, including future president John F. Kennedy. Despite its curative properties, Castle Hot Springs went up in flames in 1975.
For over 40 years, the charred resort sat desolate, ready for someone to resuscitate its heart so that it might once again breathe life into others. Along came Cindy and Mike Watts, who first spotted the land while flying over during quailhunting season. For around $2 million, they purchased the skeleton resort with only three buildings remaining. After a five-year historic restoration, Castle Hot Springs finally had the resurrection it deserved, today earning accolades among the best hotels in the world.
Understandably so. Designed with luxury and relaxation in mind, 30 bungalows and cottages boast stone tubs, covered decks, telescopes, and indooroutdoor
fireplaces. Each room is strategically located at the water’s edge so you can fall asleep to the sound of the creek.
Clearly, we had found our healing place. Pulling back the curtains, my husband inhaled deeply and closed his eyes.
“Oh, look, a hiking trail,” I clapped behind him.
Alas, it was, and 17 of them to be exact. From aerial walkways and agave farms to canyon caves and mountain summits, we explored as many as we could in between yoga, massages, biking, rock climbing and farm tours. The latter ignited an unparalleled appreciation for the kitchen, where the chef and farmer work in unison, so much so that they create the daily four-course tasting menu together.
During our tour through) the “living pantry,” we tasted leafy greens and fragrant herbs that made their way from farm-to-fork later that night. With over 3 acres under cultivation, the team of agronomists harvests more than 150 varieties of crops each season. Nova Scotia halibut with
beluga lentils or Colorado lamb with pistachio butter and sweet potato fondant? Choices, choices.
If only we had more time and doggie bags to take home the feeling of Castle Hot Springs when life turned south. It was the type of place that coated you in experiences over accommodations, and memories over moments. We felt it during our bike tour, cruising down a network of singletrack trails, mining roads and narrow canyons. It hit us again during our multiple soaks in the thermal pools.
We slept deeply that night, so deeply in fact, that we awakened, and it was time to go ... at noon. Driving back to the airport, we once again sat in silence. Only this time, I wasn’t thinking about rental cars and traffic and the meditation class I was about to miss.
Instead, I was thinking about the miracle of an oasis that withstood the flames of the past to now extinguish the pain of the present. I thought about how those restorative waters had the power to plunge me out of exhaustion and help me emerge anew with a deeper understanding and appreciation of loving myself. I thought about how cultivating wellness — from the food that I eat to the hours that I sleep — is a purposeful journey, not a prescribed destination. I thought about how two resorts in the Arizona desert revealed the importance of staying aligned in 2024, versus reaching a point of pushing reset.
Grabbing my husband’s hand, I gave it little squeeze. “Well,” I said, “this is certainly off to a good start.”
BEST BETS Sunday
“My Perfect Romance”: Uptv, 7 p.m. Original film. Robinson Tech is launching a new dating service, but when its CEO (Christopher Russell) and tech developer (Kimberly-sue Murray) are challenged on live TV to test the service themselves, the algorithm shows some interesting results.
“Yellowstone”: CBS, 8 p.m. The hit Paramount Network drama continues on CBS with three Season 3 episodes tonight. In “All for Nothing,” Beth (Kelly Reilly) reveals a secret to John (Kevin Costner). “The Beating” and “I Killed a Man Today” follow.
“The Many Lives of Martha Stewart”: CNN, beginning at 9 p.m. New series. This fourpart docuseries traces Martha Stewart’s explosive rise to success, her staggering fall from grace and her momentous comeback to the limelight. The series tells Stewart’s story by weaving together never-beforeseen images from her past, rich archival footage, and exclusive interviews with her former employees, colleagues, fellow inmates and closest confidants. Two hourlong episodes air tonight; the series concludes next Sunday with two more episodes.
“All Creatures Great and Small”: KPBS, 9 p.m. Following a visit to the Crabtrees’ farm, Carmody (James Anthony-rose) is challenged with learning how to be a vet outside of his books. Meanwhile, the new farmers have a worrying illness among their herd and James (Nicholas Ralph) wants to help them in any way he can, and Helen (Rachel Shenton) rallies the community to help the newcomers while she waits for some personal news.
“Next Level Chef”: Fox, 10 p.m.
Season premiere. Catch a special preview of Next Level Chef Season 3 following Fox’s coverage of the NFL’S NFC Championship Game. Gordon Ramsay, Nyesha Arrington and Richard Blais put chefs through a gauntlet of culinary challenges set on a three-floor stage, each with a different kitchen. The show begins on its regular day and time on Thursday.
Monday
“Ride”: The CW, 8 p.m. Cash’s (Beau Mirchoff) ride at Boulder Rocky Mountain Rodeo puts the Mcmurrays back in business.
“America’s Got Talent: Fantasy League”: NBC, 8 p.m.
The semifinal rounds begin tonight, with the remaining acts performing and two of them receiving Golden Buzzers to advance to the finals. A third act will be chosen by the audience voters.
“Antiques Roadshow”: KPBS, 8 p.m. At Old Sturbridge Village in Sturbridge, Mass., “Roadshow” discovers treasures, including a 1954 Marilyn Monroe tissue with a soldier’s letter and Paul Revere pottery vases.
“History’s Greatest Mysteries”: History, 9 p.m. Season premiere. The series returns for Season 5 with “Montezuma’s Lost Treasure.” When an Aztec king’s glittering treasure vanished into thin air, it inspired a 500-year search that has spanned continents. One of the greatest warriors of all time amassed a great hoard believed to be worth more than $3 billion today, but its whereabouts remain a mystery.
“The Irrational”: NBC, 10 p.m. New episodes. This new drama returns from hiatus to conclude its first season with four new episodes starting tonight with “Scorched Earth,” in which Alec (Jesse L. Martin) takes a case involving a young burn victim and an arson that forces him to confront past trauma. The series has been renewed for Season 2.
Tuesday “Vanderpump Rules”: Bravo, 8 p.m.
Season premiere. Season 11 of the reality show following restaurateur Lisa Vanderpump and her staff members returns with the fallout of Scandoval — an affair between Tom Sandoval and Raquel Leviss, which was revealed at the end of Season 10 — sure to be at the center of the highly anticipated premiere. Ariana Madix, Sandoval’s ex, is set to return along with Lala Kent, James Kennedy, Scheana Shay and Katie Maloney.
“Name That Tune”: Fox, 8 p.m.
Tonight’s new episode of the musical guessing game has singer and TV personality Erika Jayne vs. chef and Food Network personality Sunny Anderson, and actor and producer Robbie Amell vs. his wife, actor Italia Ricci.
“Night Court”: NBC, 8 p.m.
Dan (John Larroquette) embraces Comic-con and finds a potential love connection with a woman who has sworn to destroy him.
“Extended Family”: NBC, 8:30 p.m.
Julia (Abigail Spencer) and Jim (Jon Cryer) worry about the message it sends when Trey’s (Donald Faison) status gets him out of a speeding ticket.
“The Floor”: Fox, 9 p.m.
The quiz show hosted by Rob Lowe continues with 50 players remaining and two contestants tied for the most turf in the new episode “I Did Not See That Coming.”
“La Brea”: NBC, 9 p.m. When a massive fire breaks out and forces everyone to flee, Sam (Jon Seda) and Lucas (Josh Mckenzie) lead the fight for survival.
“Frontline”: KPBS, 9 p.m. This investigation looks at the roots of the criminal cases and historic charges against former President Donald Trump stemming from his 2020 election loss, examining the House Jan. 6 committee’s evidence and the threat to democracy.
“Good Trouble”: Freeform, 10 p.m.
Kelly (Anastasia Leddick) hosts a murder-mystery bash at The Coterie; stories blur with truth as tensions come to light.
Wednesday
“Wild Cards”: The CW, 8 p.m.
Max (Vanessa Morgan) and Ellis (Giacomo Gianniotti) look into the disappearance of a butcher in a small rural town. “Chicago Med”: NBC, 8 p.m.
Charles (Oliver Platt) helps a woman’s depressed husband. Meanwhile, Asher’s (Jessy Schram) first date takes a surprising turn.
“Nature”: KPBS, 8 p.m.
Gabon’s Loango National Park is home to a group of western lowland gorillas that have become accustomed to biologists who have studied them for almost 20 years. This documentary presents an intimate look at a silverback and his family, and features a newborn baby gorilla, brave researchers, forest elephants, buffaloes and the last remaining wild coastline in the African tropics.
“Family Law”: The CW, 9 p.m.
Abby (Jewel Staite) represents an activist whose devotion to the cause might cost him custody of his children.
A spectacular fossil graveyard reveals a 43-million-year-old whale that had four legs and could walk. Follow scientists as they search for new clues to how mammals moved from land into the sea to become the largest animals on Earth. “Feud: Capote vs. The Swans”: FX & FXX, 10 p.m.
“Nova”: KPBS, 9 p.m.
Season premiere. The new season of FX’S Feud centers on writer Truman Capote (Tom Hollander) and his friendships with “The Swans” — wealthy socialites Babe Paley (Naomi Watts), Slim Keith (Diane Lane), C.Z. Guest (Chloë Sevigny), Lee Radziwill (Calista Flockhart), Ann Woodward (Demi Moore) and Joanne Carson (Molly Ringwald). When Capote publishes an excerpt from his upcoming novel that exposes their secrets, the ladies vow to ruin him. Two episodes premiere tonight on FX. A director’s cut of the pilot airs on FXX.
Thursday “Son of a Critch”: The CW, 8 p.m.
Mark (Benjamin Evan Ainsworth) is dumbfounded when he faces his crush.
“Next Level Chef”: Fox, 8 p.m.
The auditions continue in this new episode as the home cooks fight for one of the coveted five spots that advances them to the mentorship
team draft.
“The Tall Tales of Jim Bridger”: INSP, 8 p.m.
While guiding a hunting expedition, Jim Bridger (Rib Hillis) must deal with an arrogant foreign prince who is abusing his servant boy. But the tables soon turn when it is the prince who needs rescuing, and his only hope is the long-suffering servant.
“Law & Order”: NBC, 8 p.m.
An unexpected witness appears when Shaw (Mehcad Brooks) and Riley (Reid Scott) investigate a real estate agent’s murder.
“The Power of Film”: TCM, 8 p.m.
Catch a classic. This episode looks at how, in almost every memorable film, things are not what they seem, and learning the truth about characters and situations creates much of the tension in the movie. Often, the truth of the story is quite paradoxical, which is what makes viewers want to keep watching. Representative titles following the episode are “2001: A Space Odyssey” (1968), “Metropolis” (1927), “Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde” (1941) and “Rebel Without a Cause” (1955).
“Farmer Wants a Wife”: Fox, 9 p.m.
Season premiere. Ty Ferrell, Mitchell Kolinsky, Brandon Rogers and Nathan Smothers are the farmers looking for love in Season 2 of this reality dating series. Jennifer Nettles returns as host.
“Genius: MLK/X”: Nat Geo, 9 p.m. Season premiere. This season, Nat Geo’s awardwinning anthology series “Genius” focuses on two iconic geniuses — Martin Luther King Jr. and Malcolm X — and how their dueling philosophies helped usher America through the Civil Rights Movement. Stars Kelvin Harrison Jr. (“The Trial of the Chicago 7”) as King and Aaron Pierre (“The Underground Railroad”) as Malcolm X.
“Law & Order: Special Victims Unit”: NBC, 9 p.m. Benson (Mariska Hargitay) tries to support a victim’s family when tragedy strikes twice.
“Children Ruin Everything”: The CW, 9:30 p.m. Astrid (Meaghan Rath) and James (Aaron Abrams) struggle to find something to talk about other than the kids.
Friday “Orion and the Dark”: Netflix.
Original film. This animated film based on the children’s book follows elementary schoolkid Orion (voice of Jacob Tremblay), who is completely consumed by irrational fears of bees, dogs, the ocean and more. But of all his fears, the greatest is one he confronts on a nightly basis: the dark. So when the literal embodiment of his worst fear pays a visit, Dark (Paul Walter Hauser) whisks Orion away on a roller-coaster ride around the world to prove there is nothing to be afraid of in the night. Can Orion learn to stop letting fear control his life and finally embrace the joy of living?
“The Tiger’s Apprentice”: Paramount+
Original film. The animated fantasy adventure based on the children’s book series by Laurence Yep follows Chinese American teenager Tom Lee (voice of Brandon Soo Hoo), whose life changes forever when he discovers that he is part of a long lineage of magical protectors known as the Guardians. With guidance from a mythical tiger named Hu (Henry Golding), Tom trains to take on Loo (Michelle Yeoh), a force who is as powerful as a Guardian but with evil intentions to use magic to destroy humanity. The voice cast also includes Lucy Liu, Sandra Oh and Bowen Yang.
“Transplant”: NBC, 8 p.m. In the wake of a shocking incident, the doctors at York Memorial need to rally, and Bash (Hamza Haq) is thrown into an unexpected public health crisis.
“Gilded Newport Mysteries: Murder at the Breakers”: Hallmark Movies & Mysteries, 9 p.m. Original film. A writer (Ali Skovbye) in 1895 Rhode Island witnesses a murder while attending a ball at the Vanderbilt mansion and is drawn into the investigation when her brother is arrested.
Saturday “Paging Mr. Darcy”: Hallmark Channel, 8 p.m.
Original film. A love of Jane Austen’s novels helps two people (Mallory Jansen and Will Kemp) overcome their pride in the first of four original “Loveuary” films inspired by Jane Austen.
“The Svengoolie Classic Horror & Sci-fi Movie: Revenge of the Creature”: METV, 8 p.m.
Sven introduces 1955’s “Revenge of the Creature,” the first of two sequels to “Creature From the Black Lagoon.” Here, the Gill-man (played by Ricou Browning in the water and by Tom Hennesy on land) is captured and brought to a Florida aquarium for study, eventually escaping.