San Diego Union-Tribune

BREADCRUMB­S AMP UP CRUNCH

Homemade version stirs in garlic, cheese

- BY JESSE SZEWCZYK Szewczyk is a freelance writer. This article appeared in The Washington Post.

Like many, I fell into the world of bread-baking in 2020, tending carefully to my sourdough starter and waxing poetic about my boules to my boyfriend. But with just the two of us, it became hard to finish all that bread. So I started to make breadcrumb­s.

It was a hobby that started out of necessity, as a way to use up stale bread, but it quickly turned into an activity I looked forward to for its meditative qualities. If you’ve never dipped your hands into a bowl of freshly processed breadcrumb­s and felt their gritty, sandy texture, you’re seriously missing out.

To make them, I start by cutting a loaf of stale sourdough bread into large cubes and scattering them across a sheet tray. I bake them slowly until they’re fragrant and golden, perfuming my apartment with the comforting scent of toast. I then pulse the cubes in a food processor to transform them into crumbs.

This is the first opportunit­y to elevate them. I like my crumbs large and scraggly, not fine like most storebough­t varieties, so they can perfectly trap my favorite seasonings.

I fry the breadcrumb­s in a

Dutch oven with a generous amount of olive oil, five minced garlic cloves and a pinch of red pepper f lakes. The bread sizzles and pops, absorbing the f lavorful oil as it slowly darkens in color.

I transfer the crumbs to a bowl to cool, add freshly grated Parmesan cheese and massage with my hands. This step might sound a bit precious, but it breaks down the cheese in a way that leaves behind its savory flavor without compromisi­ng the breadcrumb­s’ crunchy texture. I finish them with lemon zest, minced parsley, salt and pepper, and suddenly my stale loaf has a new life. It’s something crunchier, saltier and worth celebratin­g a second time.

Once I have freshly made breadcrumb­s, I add them to pasta as a final crunchy topping, to salads in place of croutons and to roasted chicken for a pop of texture. The crumbs pack enough f lavor and crunch to upgrade just about any meal. A simple dinner of pasta tossed in nothing more than olive oil makes the perfect blank canvas to let the

breadcrumb­s shine, and having them on hand just makes weeknight cooking more exciting.

In fact, I’ve slowly started to plan my meals around what I can sprinkle them over.

The recipe makes a large batch, so you can store them in your fridge and use them as-is, or quickly heat them in a dry pan to restore crispness.

Once you make them, you might never go back to the boxed, seasoned variety again.

Take your time, allow yourself to get lost in the process, and breathe some new life into your stale bread.

 ?? TOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST ??
TOM MCCORKLE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

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