HERE’S THE SCOOP: TOMATO PASTE CAN ADD UMAMI AND DEPTH TO A DISH
There are lots of ways to finish a dish with a touch of flair. A squirt of lemon juice here, a dash of pepper flakes there. But unlocking the flavor potential of a dish shouldn’t just be left to the end. If you want real depth, start at the beginning.
Tomato paste is one element to consider in building that foundation. This pantry staple features the sweet and savory flavors and the acidity of tomatoes in a potent and convenient form.
Cento, a supermarket staple brand, shares how tomato paste is made: “After sorting, the tomatoes are ground into a mash. The mash is then cooked until a looser, brighter red and fresher tasting paste is produced. The paste is spun at high speeds to remove the pulp and seeds. Once this process is complete, the paste is placed in evaporation tanks where the water is removed.”
You may see the label “double-concentrated” on the packaging. As America’s Test Kitchen explains, this is mostly a difference between American and Italian manufacturers. Italian manufacturers conduct the evaporation for a longer period at a lower temperature, hence the “doubleconcentrated” description. American manufacturers use a higher temperature for a shorter amount of time, which is why American-made paste tends to be darker, thicker and more cooked-tasting than brighter-tasting, looser
Italian brands. ATK notes that the two varieties are interchangeable in recipes, with very little noticeable differences when compared side by side in finished dishes.
Italian varieties are most often sold in tubes, and American in cans. For convenience,
I prefer the tubes, which can be stored up to 45 days in the refrigerator after opening. If you open a can, transfer any leftover paste to an airtight container for a few days, max, but it’s best to move extras to the freezer. I scoop the remainder into 1-tablespoon portions, freeze on a parchment- or silicone-lined baking sheet until solid and then transfer to a bag or container for long-term storage. There’s no real need to defrost. It will thaw quickly on the counter or in a whatever dish you add it to.
Like anchovies, mushrooms and kombu, tomatoes are naturally high in glutamates, a family of chemicals that are primarily responsible for creating umami, the sensation of savory depth. While you may not necessarily taste tomato when you include it in a dish, you’ll still reap the benefits.
The lack of extraneous liquid makes tomato paste a natural addition to any tomato sauce. Consider browning it in the skillet, after the onions and along with such quick-cooking aromatics as garlic and red pepper flakes, for additional flavor development.
One of my favorite ways to use tomato paste is in vegetable broth. Even just a tablespoon will add depth you might otherwise get from meat-based ingredients. Same goes for adding it to beans. Similarly, it’s a natural in stews and braises.
Pair it with mellow and bold flavors alike. It contributes assertive power to mild proteins such as chicken and works well with beef, too.
Use it to add color and flavor to a variety of condiments, even if it’s just a dab in some plain ol’ mayo, or to a garlic aioli.