San Diego Union-Tribune

Community support key for most

- Hernández is founder of San Diego Beer News (www.sandiegobe­er.news), a site providing daily coverage of the county’s brewing industry, a beat he’s covered for 15 years. Follow him @sdbeernews or contact him at: brandon@sandiegobe­er.news

was imperative for both companies to get their would-be profit centers back online, but a number of factors — shifting regulation­s followed by the staffing challenges facing nearly every industry — made it difficult. Still, both operations pushed forward and managed to reopen.

Bay City’s East Village brewpub reopened in April, in time to benefit from the baseball season in the spring and early summer months when the Padres were performing at their best and drawing large crowds. It wasn’t until late summer that the company was able to open its Point Loma tasting room, but it has since resumed its status as a pre- and post-game hot spot for San Diego Gulls hockey fans, allowing the company to recoup some losses and start focusing once more on the future.

It wasn’t until the first weekend of November that Black Market welcomed fans back after replenishi­ng its taps with a combinatio­n of beers brewed on-site and at the company’s Temecula facility. Its kitchen operation has temporaril­y been replaced with food trucks, but Dyer is pleased to be back even if it’s in a slightly diminished state and was encouraged by the amount of local support he received during the brewpub’s closure.

“The community really wanted us to open back up, so we didn’t want to delay any longer,” says Dyer, who is in the process of planning an official grand opening — or reopening — in the coming months.

Then there’s the locally unique case of Division 23 Brewing, a small brewery operated by Miramar HVAC interest, DMG Corp. This beer-manufactur­ing offshoot was built in a groundleve­l space beneath its parent business and includes a mancave-like tasting room outfitted with numerous airconditi­oning units, allowing it to double as a showroom and entertaini­ng space for clients.

When the pandemic took hold, owner Kellen Smith closed the brewery indefinite­ly. While it pained him to see his staffers go on unemployme­nt, having Division 23 as a secondary business allowed him to go dark and wait however long it took until he felt the time was right to come back. For Smith, that was at the end of August when, after spending six months getting equipment back in order and analyzing every aspect of the business to raise efficienci­es, his team held its grand opening.

“Having my employees back and willing to work through these restrictio­ns was the biggest thing that allowed us to reopen,” says Smith. “Our regulars have started coming back and shown us the amount of love that was there, pre-pandemic, so Division 23 is getting right back to normal.”

To comply or defy

Over the span of the pandemic, no local brewing entity has been more vocal about the challenges presented by government­al regulation­s, as well as hospitalit­y venues’ adherence to them — or lack thereof — than the owners of Bagby Beer Co. A large, two-story

brewpub situated on a sprawling campus that was once a car dealership along the Coast Highway in Oceanside, the business closed down numerous times in 2020.

The first closure came March 16, 2020, and lasted until July 19, 2020, when the business reopened exclusivel­y for pickup. A couple of weeks later, the brewpub added outdoor dining, which lasted until November 2020, at which point they resumed indoor dining at the brewpub’s main bar. By last December, Bagby Beer closed again following Gov. Gavin Newsom’s issuance of a regional stay-at-home order. During that period, Bagby’s husband-wife founders became incensed seeing neighborin­g businesses fully open in defiance of the governor’s order while their interest remained closed. It didn’t help that they found themselves judged by the public simply for doing as they were directed.

“We actually took flak for closing in December when we and every restaurant’s on-site dining were mandated to close. Some folks felt we were ‘following the herd’ versus standing up to the government,” says coowner

Dande Bagby. “We, of course, didn’t see it that way. We have always wanted to do our part to stop the spread of the virus, as well as protect our guests, our team and ourselves. We have trusted the science and shown respect for authority.”

After nearly six years of heavy patronage, the Bagbys feared their family business might never reopen. But thanks to additional funding, understand­ing vendors, dedicated employees and a number of other factors, they were able to keep the business alive, despite escalating costs and labor challenges. The brewpub is again stocked with house beer, equipped with a new, completely overhauled menu and it even hosted a large festival devoted to lagers recently. The Bagbys hope to be back to 75 percent of pre-COVID numbers by spring.

“There’s been lots of change, but we are still passionate about brewing and sharing true-to-style, delicious and drinkable beers. We still have our killer cocktail and wine programs, and we are still preparing and serving awesome food from our full-scratch kitchen,” Bagby said. “An increase in

consumer confidence, which we believe will come only with more successful eradicatio­n of COVID-19, will be a positive step toward stability for us and many businesses.”

Under new ownership

Not every brewing company that returned to San Diego’s suds-scape did so following a COVID-related closure. Oceanside Ale Works opened as its namesake community’s first-ever brewery in 2006 before shutting down in January 2018 because of an impasse between its pair of founders. It then stayed closed amid legal proceeding­s. The recent expiration of a noncompete clause allowed the majority owner, Mark Purciel, to revive the business following a series of renovation­s to up efficiency and improve the customer experience.

Since Oceanside Ale Works’ grand opening in July, Purciel, who is also in charge of brewing, has attracted solid patronage thanks in part to events where he has tapped re-released iterations of fan-favorite and award-winning beers.

“The support has been epic from so many friends I have not seen in years, sharing old stories while making new ones and enjoying some good times,” said Purciel.

Guillermo Nassir has gone a different route — taking over an existing brewery and spending the past two years making it his own. He is grateful for the regulars that have kept his Align Brewing going in Miramar. Align operated from 2017 to 2019 until its original owner and brewer Andrew Heino (who remains a shareholde­r) moved to Hawaii, at which point he handed it off to Nassir, whose primary business, a fermented foodand-beverage brand called Collective Culture, is located in the same industrial park.

Not long after getting in a groove at the brewery, the March 2020 shutdown order came through. It wasn’t until February of this year that Nassir was able to open again. At the time, he and his wife had just welcomed their first son, adding to the challenges of saving the business. But with helping hands all around, he’s continued to brew new beers while also developing tasting-room event programmin­g that has helped bring in customers.

“My partners have been instrument­al. They selflessly showed up time and time again to encourage me, help me dust things off, reorganize, restock and brew up a massive variety of beers for our return,” says Nassir.

Finally, there is Mission Brewery, whose founder, Dan Selis vacated his leadership role following a shift in ownership stakes that saw the 14-year-old East Village operation bring on a new CEO. That individual, Dan Partelow, spent 27 years working for AnheuserBu­sch InBev, where he spent a decade heading its Craft Brew Alliance portfolio of acquired craft-beer brands.

Partelow’s addition coincided with the August reopening of Mission’s tasting room. The following month, the company’s Dark Seas imperial stout won a gold medal at the country’s most prestigiou­s annual brewing competitio­n, Denver’s Great American Beer Festival.

 ?? EDUARDO CONTRERAS U-T ?? Bartender Shannon Evans prepares a drink at Bagby Beer Co. The owners were upset seeing other businesses defying the December shutdown orders.
EDUARDO CONTRERAS U-T Bartender Shannon Evans prepares a drink at Bagby Beer Co. The owners were upset seeing other businesses defying the December shutdown orders.

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