Spicy Sesame Chile Oil Noodles

Chinese sesame paste — deep and nutty — and a spicy chile oil turn these simple noodles into something complex, savory and satisfying. If you can’t find the sesame paste, substitute tahini, and if you can’t find the black vinegar, use balsamic. The fun is in the choice of noodles: Mike Le and Stephanie Le, authors of “That Noodle Life,” suggest Shangxi planed noodles, ruffleedged dried Chinese knife-cut noodles, but you can use any of your favorites. Italian mafaldine (akin to long, skinny lasagna noodles) and long fusilli (shaped like a stretched-out telephone cord) also work well here. If you don’t like your sesame noodles spicy, use hoisin sauce in place of the chile oil. Chinese sesame paste, black vinegar and Shangxi planed noodles can be found at well-stocked Asian supermarkets.

Makes 2 servings

6 ounces long dried noodles, preferably curly or ruffled, such as Shangxi planed noodles, mafaldine or long fusilli

2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce 2 tablespoons Chinese sesame paste (may substitute tahini)

11⁄2 tablespoons chile oil, preferably with chile flakes included, such as Chinese chili crisp

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil 2 teaspoons Chinese black vinegar (may substitute balsamic vinegar) 2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced, for serving

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, for serving

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and cook the noodles according to the package directions. Reserve 1⁄4 cup of the noodle cooking water and drain well.

While the pasta is cooking, in a large bowl whisk together the soy sauce, sesame paste, chile oil, sesame oil and black vinegar.

Add the drained noodles to the sauce, tossing to coat them well. Loosen the sauce with some of the noodle cooking water, if needed. Divide among serving plates, sprinkle with the scallions and sesame seeds and serve warm.

Storage note: Refrigerate leftovers for up to 5 days.

Adapted from “That Noodle Life” by Mike Le and Stephanie Le (Workman Publishing, 2022).