MEAT OF THE MATTER
IF YOU’RE NOT FIRING UP THE GRILL ON JULY FOURTH, THESE SPOTS OFFER THE REGIONAL BARBECUE FAVORITES YOU GREW UP ON
Who doesn’t love barbecue? Just in time for summer, we’ve revisited our barbecue roundup from a couple of years ago and compiled a new list with some of our favorites — the classics and the San Diego standbys — and added some new ones, too. Here, in alphabetical order, is the San Diego County barbecue Class of 2022.
Abbey’s Real Texas BBQ
Now that we’ve tasted some ’cue from Abbey’s Real Texas BBQ, we can add the Miramar joint to our list of barbecue favorites. When we compiled our list of best barbecue places back in 2018, our list didn’t include Abbey’s. We didn’t hear from readers, but owner Matt Shlemon did. Abbey’s has been part of San Diego’s barbecue scene for a long time, dating back to the 1980s. One day during a casual lunch visit, Shlemon, after loving the food at what was then called Real Texas BBQ, made an offer to buy the place, even though it wasn’t for sale. He scribbled an offer on a paper napkin — an offer that was later accepted. The restaurant was rebranded and named after one of Shlemon’s kids, Abbey, who loved barbecue. The rest, as they say, is history. For years, Matt and his wife, Athena, were at the helm of the family business. Now, their sons Mark and Matt are running the show, continuing the tradition their parents started. During a recent visit, we tried the brisket, which was tender and juicy, and the baby back ribs, which definitely had the smoky flavor Texax BBQ is known for. There are many side-dish offerings, but a must-have is the cornbread. Trust us. 6904 Miramar Road, San Diego. (858) 566-2333, abbeystexasbbq.com (Rocha)
BBQ House Bar & Grill
This readers’ favorite is a family-owned, 31-year-old Ocean Beach sports bar with a serious attitude about its barbecue. It’s beloved for its slow-cooked barbecue beef, pork and ham sandwiches and plate meals, and it serves pork and beef ribs by the pound. Some of its top-selling dishes are its pulled-pork sandwich, beef brisket, Louisiana hot links and tri-tip. 5025 Newport
Ave., Ocean Beach. (619) 222-4311, bbqhouseob.com (Kragen)
Bowlegged BBQ
Headquartered in Mount Hope, which the Stance family has called home for more than 50 years, this 3-year-old East Texasstyle barbecue joint uses soulful recipes passed down by the family of Ken “Bowlegged” Stance for generations. The specialties include slow-smoked brisket, tritip, ribs, chicken and hot links, plus a seasonal chili. 4255 Market St., San Diego. bowleggedbbq.com(Kragen)
Bubba’s Smokehouse BBQ
With its extensive menu — pork and beef ribs, brisket, tri-tip, pulled pork, chicken and more — Bubba’s is a bona fide crowd-pleaser. You don’t even have to stick with one style of ’cue; choose from Bubba’s Secret Dry Rub (no sauce), zesty North Carolina vinegar-based or traditional southern sweet barbecue sauce. 888 Prospect St., La Jolla. (858) 551-4227, bubbassmokehousebbq.com (Parente)
Bull’s Smokin’ BBQ
Originally launched in 2009 as Frankie the Bull’s BBQ, Bull’s smokes all its meat Texas-style on the premises, everything from pulled pork and beef brisket to ribs and chicken. Everything is served as a la carte
items, which you can complement with sides like fries, beans, coleslaw or mac ’n’ cheese. The pulled pork fries are a house specialty and a customer favorite. During a visit, the smoked pork ribs were cooked and smoked just right, served clean with sauces available in squeeze bottles at each table. 1127 Morena Blvd., San Diego. (619) 276-2855 (Rocha)
Cali Comfort BBQ
Cali Comfort serves up big-time barbecue with a small-town feel. Fans look forward to the annual Spring Valley Tailgate & BBQ charity festival, thrown by owners Shawn and Rositsa Walchef, which brings together amateur and pro pitmasters. But locals know the other 364 days a year, it’s all about the melt-in-your-mouth, slowsmoked tri-tip. 8910 Troy St., Spring Valley. (619) 337-0670, calicomfortbbq.com (Parente)
Coaster Saloon
You can probably smell chef Tim Eylens’ Texas-style, oak-smoked meats on the lower portions of the Belmont Park roller coaster. You can definitely hear the screams of sports fans catching games on the giant outdoor projection screen and 15 TVs. This is barbecue Mission Beach style, with ocean breezes and oceans of beer on tap, 40 in all. 744 Ventura Place, Mission Beach. (858) 488-4438. Instagram: @coastersaloon (Parente)
Coop’s West Texas BBQ
There’s a reason there’s almost always a line at Coop’s: It’s that good. Choose from pork spare ribs, beef brisket, jerk chicken or pulled pork, but you really can’t go wrong with anything. The meat’s tasty and smoked perfectly. The food tastes so good, it’s sinful, but the only sin to be committed here is not ordering the collard greens. Make sure to peek in the kitchen — you might get a glimpse of the man himself, owner Bradrick “Coop” Cooper.
2625 Lemon Grove Ave., Lemon Grove. (619) 589-0478, coopsbbq.com (Rocha)
Corbin’s Q BBQ and Brew House
Corbin O’Reilly grew up in San Luis Obispo, where he raised Angus beef cattle and learned to barbecue on Santa Mariastyle grills. When he moved to San Diego and couldn’t find the wide variety of barbecue stands at local farmers markets that exist in SLO, he started his own stand, Corbin’s Q, at the La Jolla farmers market. That grew to other markets and a catering business before he opened this College Area restaurant and craft beer tap room in 2017. He’s best known for his Santa Mariastyle tri-tip and ribs, as well as his homemade sides, including mac ’n’ cheese, mashed potatoes and loaded fries.
6548 El Cajon Blvd., College Area. (619) 913-3287, corbinsq.com (Kragen)
Del’s Hideout
Opened in Del Cerro by the Cohn Restaurant Group in 2019, this casual Americana restaurant specializes in Texas-style barbecue, burgers and entree salads. Diners can buy barbecue by the plate or family-style with massive platters for parties of two to 12. Specialties include spare ribs, smoked pork shoulder, Prime beef brisket, Nashville hot chicken, smoked turkey breast and beef brisket hot links. 5351 Adobe Falls Road, San Diego. (619) 255-8175, cohnrestaurants.com/ delshideout (Kragen)
Enzo’s BBQ & Alehouse
Just because “alehouse” is a part of the restaurant’s name doesn’t mean this is just a beer-centric joint masquerading as a barbecue restaurant. Italian owner Enzo Mistretta — he was born in Bagheria, a small town in Sicily — has more than 25 years of experience in restaurants. In 2005, he decided to take on a decidedly American food and opened Enzo’s BBQ & Alehouse in Oceanside. The barbecue platters are popular, especially the Southern Combo: pulled pork, Texas-smoked brisket and baby back ribs, served with Southern beans, coleslaw and a very moist corn bread. 4111 Oceanside Blvd., No. 201, Oceanside. (760) 643-9602. enzosbbq.com (Rocha)
Felix’s BBQ With Soul
When you sit down at a barbecue restaurant and they immediately bring out a basket of warm and moist cornbread, you know it’s bound to be a good meal. And Felix’s BBQ With Soul, with three San Diego County locations, didn’t disappoint. The jampacked menu has everything a good Southern BBQ place ought to have — from baby back ribs and brisket to tri-tip and pulled pork. And sides? Boy, do they have ’em. The long list includes red beans with rice, black-eyed peas, mac ’n’ cheese, braised cabbage and collard greens. The meat’s not quite the fall-off-the-bone kind, but it’s tender and smoked just right (it’s slow-cooked in a hickory-wood-burning pit), completed by a sweet and smoky sauce. A dinner companion summed up the experience: “This is some good stuff.” Good stuff, indeed, but the service is even better — always with a smile. 3613 Ocean Ranch Blvd., Oceanside; 763 Center Drive, Suite 103, San Marcos; 5671 Palmer Way, Carlsbad. felixsbbq.com (Rocha)
Grand Ole BBQ y Asado and Grand Ole BBQ
Grand Ole BBQ y Asado in North Park was closed for a while, but thankfully it’s back. Owner Andy Harris loves barbecue so much, he mastered the craft over two decades by checking out barbecue joints across the country. His outpost in Flinn Springs in East County is closer to me, so when we have a hankerin’ for something smoky, we point our car east. The Flinn Springs location’s no-frills menu is filled with culinary gems, from the ultra-tender brisket to the fall-off-the-bone ribs (both beef and pork). There are several side selections, from mac ’n’ cheese and spicy
slaw to fries and white beans with bacon. But leave some room for my favorite: the green beans, perfect with any protein you choose. The decor of the main dining room/bar area is a bit kitschy: midcentury meets mountain lodge. When the AC is on for those hot East County days, it’s just perfect. North Park: 3302 32nd St., San Diego. (619) 213-3765. Flinn Springs: 15505 Olde Highway 80, El Cajon. (619) 312-0714. grandolebbq.com (Rocha)
Iron Pig Alehouse
A popular Pacific Beach Texas-style barbecue joint since 2014, this casual restaurant is known for its “low and slow” meatsmoking process and its made-from-scratch sauces, rubs and sides. Beef and pork is dry-rubbed with a house seasoning and slow-cooked over hickory wood. Ribs are a top seller, but if you can’t decide, best to order the Meat Madness platter, a $49 mega-plate with baby back ribs, pulled chicken, pulled pork, rib tips and brisket, along with choice of three sides and Texas toast. 1520 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach. (858) 412-4299, ironpigalehouse.com (Kragen)
Kaminski’s Sports Lounge & BBQ
This family-run, hickory-smoked barbecue spot opened in 1964. Owned by Marsha and June Kaminski, the Poway restaurant’s barbecue is prepared with a house rub blend and slow-smoked for 13 hours over hickory wood and then slathered with house sauce. Specialties include the Iowa baby back ribs, Texas beef brisket, Carolina pulled pork and Kaminski’s pulled pork. 12735 Poway Road, Poway. (858) 748-1106, kaminskisbbq.com (Kragen)
Lil Alex BBQ
Nestled between a Mexican restaurant and a Caribbean restaurant on Bonita Road is Lil Alex BBQ. Its abundant menu — all dishes are prepared on site — ranges from tri-tip sandwiches, burgers and chicken to beef ribs, pork ribs and pulled pork. Offering family meal options and daily lunch specials, Lil Alex specializes in mesquite-grilled,
remarkable ribs. Newbies should order meal No. 2, which features four pork ribs and a beef bone with two side dishes. The beef bone is one of the most tender and juicy beef ribs you will find. The meaty, not fatty pork ribs are dusted in a mild, flavorful rub. Both are served with a traditional, smoky-sweet sauce with a tinge of spice, but ask for it on the side; you will want to savor both meats with and without it. With a slew of side dish choices, the red potato salad is worth a try — mild, creamy, with a hint of rosemary seasoning — and the coleslaw, too, is a non-sweet complement to the barbecue sauce so its sweetness can shine. 4020 Bonita Road, Bonita. (619) 240-7785, lilalexbbq.com (Price)
Lil’ Piggy’s Bar-B-Q
Boasting Memphis-style sweet sauce “so good makes you want to slap somebody,” Lil’ Piggy’s nonetheless lets you choose your hickory-smoked meats wet or dry. Take in the bay view and the signature fall-off-the-bone, 12-hour smoked pulled pork for the ultimate San Diego barbecue experience. 1201 First St., Coronado (at the Coronado Ferry Landing). (619) 522–0217, lilpiggyscoronado.com (Parente)
Mermaids & Cowboys
At the helm of this laid-back surf and turf-inspired restaurant, pitmaster and executive chef Erik Freshley is a barbecue world champion. The Chicago native made a name for himself at prestigious competitions including Kansas City’s American Royal World Series (first place) and Houston’s World’s Championship (second place). He uses a combination of almond wood and white oak alongside his house-made dry rub, a 12-spice specialty blend that he plans to retail in the coming year. His menu prioritizes small producers and traceable sourcing, while hinting at his soulful and Southern influences with specialty dishes such as a 10-hour
braised pork roast served withcaramelized mint greens, yellow wax beans and gravy, or the New Zealand Lamb Chops with pearled barley asparagus succotash, roasted beet, burnt carrot, and mintspinach purees. A labor of love, the dish takes 72 hours from production to plate. He also offers a vegan option of grapeseed-oil-soaked veggies grilled with salt and dusted with leek ash.
1251 Prospect St., La Jolla. (858) 999-0205, mermaidscowboys.com (Kragen)
Miss Kim’s by That Boy Good
Married restaurateurs Mark and Kim Millwood run two popular Southern-style barbecue-centric restaurants in downtown Oceanside. Miss Kim’s by That Boy Good, which opened in 2012 on South Coast Highway, is a full-service juke joint barbecue restaurant. In 2017, they opened a quickservice That Boy Good walk-up counter at Northern Pine Brewing on Horne Street. The restaurants are known for the deep smoky flavor in all of their meats, which are slow-cooked over hickory or mesquite wood. Their specialties are hickorysmoked pulled pork and wings, 12-hour mesquite-smoked beef brisket and tasty sides, including smoked tri-tip chili. Miss Kim’s, 207 N. Coast Highway, Oceanside, (760) 433-4227; That Boy Good counter, 326 Horne St., Oceanside, (760) 754-1275. thatboygoodbbq.com (Kragen)
Phil’s BBQ
Since 1998, Phil’s has been San Diego County’s first name in barbecue — and barbecue lines. Mesquite-grilled baby back and beef ribs are juicy even dry. But who’d pass on the million-gallon-selling barbecue sauce, which has depth of flavor and just enough kick. Pass the Wet-Naps, please. Locations in Petco Park (three sections), Point Loma, Rancho Bernardo, Santee and San Diego International Airport (Terminal 2), as well as Temecula and at the Sycuan Casino. philsbbq.net (Parente)
The Pig’s Gig BBQ
Mastiff Sausage Co. co-founders Eric Gallerstein and Jacob Bartlett launched this smokehouse at Liberty Public Market in 2018. The quick-service barbecue spot serves Southern-style barbecue with a California flair cooked over local oak. Slowsmoked meats are the specialty. Order the Headliner for a plate of 12-hour smoked beef brisket, 10-hour smoked pulled pork and a hot link. 2820 Historic Decatur Road, San Diego. libertystation.com/go/libertypublic-market(Kragen)
Pioneer BBQ
Ex-Carnitas’ Snack Shack owner Hanis Cavin launched this Texas-style barbecue eatery in the former McCarter’s Bar & Grill in San Carlos in spring 2018, before heading off to the Pacific Northwest. The restaurant uses a Southern Pride Tennessee hard wood smoker, fed with oak and cherry wood to smoke the meats and vegetables. Its specialties are pork belly burnt ends, smoked pork shoulder, Prime beef brisket and spare ribs. 8622 Lake Murray Blvd., San Carlos. thepioneerbbq.com (Kragen)
Smitty’s BBQ
Gujuan “Smitty” Smith studied culinary arts in the U.S. Navy, where he cooked for officers at sea. In 2013, after he got out of the Navy, the Spring Valley chef launched Smitty’s, serving Louisiana-style Cajun and Creole cuisine and Southern barbecue, from a pop-up tent location in North Park. Last fall, he moved his business into Market on 8th, National City’s new food hall. Smith’s menu at the market is on a chalkboard, because he likes to change up what he cooks on a near-daily basis. Some days it’s barbecue pork ribs, sometimes it’s fried catfish, and sometimes it’s a crab boil. Longtime fans of his North Park stand recommend his smoked pork ribs with house sauce, his po’boy sandwiches and his slow-cooked collard greens. Market on 8th, 41 E. Eighth St., National City. smittystasteofthebayou.com (Kragen)
Smokey & the Brisket
Smokey & the Brisket, a new restaurant that mixes barbecue and Italian cuisine, opened in January 2021 in the former Lake Murray Cafe location. Chef/owner Alberto Morreale’s barbecue specialties include the family-style Alabama Chicken, a 24hour brined chicken, slow-roasted with the house Alabama white barbecue sauce. There’s also the “Dino” Beef Rib, which is dry-rubbed and smoked. Sides include mac ’n’ cheese and roasted garlic buttercream mashed potatoes and cole slaw. There are also Italian-style flatbreads, salads and sides. 5465 Lake Murray Blvd., La Mesa. (619) 439-6544, smokeyandthebrisketsd.com (Kragen)
Smokin J’s BBQ
Founded in 2019 by San Diego brothers Josh and Jeremy George, this family-style barbecue eatery in Old Poway Park serves brisket, pulled pork, baby back ribs,
chicken and pork belly slow-smoked over a red oak fire. There are also sandwiches, burgers, burnt ends, beans, mac ’n’ cheese, slaw and other sides, plus a house-made barbecue sauce that’s available by the bottle for takeout. 14035 Midland Road in Poway. (858) 668-7131, smokinjsrealbbq.com (Kragen)
The Barbecue Pit
The Barbecue Pit was founded in 1946 at the Maryland Hotel in downtown San Diego by sisters Lila Browning and Mella Jenson and their husbands, Joe Browning and Ed Jenson. Joe was a Navy man who came to San Diego during World War II, and Ed came from Texas where his stepfather ran several barbecue restaurants in the Dallas area. The Texas-style barbecue it serves is made with only USDA Choice meat cuts slow-cooked over an oak-wood fire using Browning family recipes. Specialties are ribs and beef ribs, pulled pork, ham, hot link and chicken. Over the years, the Barbecue Pit business grew to nearly a dozen locations countywide, but today just two remain in Fletcher Hills and National City, that are owned by the Brownings’ son, Gary, and his family. 2388 Fletcher Parkway, El Cajon; 920 E. Plaza Blvd., National City. thebarbecuepitrestaurant.com (Kragen)
When Pigs Fly BBQ & Catering
I first tasted Dale and Tammy Ginos’ heavenly brisket in 2013 at the Stagecoach Music Festival, where their quality ’cue soars past the competition of some of the best pitmasters in the country. San Diegans must agree. The original When Pigs Fly, which straddles the family’s Chevron gas station, was so busy that a second location had to be opened. But that original location, on Vista Way, is temporarily closed. 230 Main St., Vista. (760) 295-7993, whenpigsflybbq.com (Parente)
Wood Ranch BBQ & Grill
This is a barbecue restaurant for people who don’t mind wearing a bib at a business lunch. The national chain may feel a bit corporate, but Wood Ranch serves up authentic, down-home barbecue. Don’t miss the baby back ribs, flavorful tri-tip, the BBQ Sliders combo (barbecue tri-tip, Western tri-tip, Carolina pulled pork, or Double R Ranch brisket), the peanut slaw and dreamy mac ’n’ cheese. 7510 Hazard Center Drive, Mission Valley. (619) 764-4411, woodranch.com (Parente)
The Wrangler Family BBQ
If you like your barbecue smoky and your plate overflowing, this East County restaurant is the place to be. The decor is kitschy — dark wood with animal trophy heads. Think mountain lodge, circa 1960s. That’s pretty much how long this institution has been serving up Texas-style barbecue — it was established in 1965. They have an a la carte menu, but to make it simple, order the plates. You’ll get your protein and sides in one easy order. There’s beef, ham and rib, and because I like all three, I always order the beef, ham and rib combo — No. 7. All plates come with roll, butter, barbecue sauce and two sides. Choose from coleslaw, macaroni salad, baked beans or French fries. Ordering is easy and quick. They slice the meat right in front of you and heap on the sides until your plate can’t take it anymore. The barbecue sauce, which is tangier than sweet, comes on the side. 901 El Cajon Blvd., El Cajon. (619) 442-1170, thewranglerfamily barbecue.com (Rocha)
COMING SOON Louisiana Charlie’s
This Long Beach-based Southern barbecue and Cajun/Creole restaurant will open its second location in late July or early August at Seaport Village in downtown San Diego. With roots in the Bayout State, owners Shanda and Eric Laurent have become known for their New Orleansstyle baby back ribs, beef brisket and pulled pork sandwiches. When the new restaurant opens, expect to see Eric himself tending the barrel pit, where the meat is slow-smoked by hand. Seaport Village, 849 W. Harbor Drive, Suite 55, San Diego. louisianacharlies.com (Kragen)
Heritage Barbecue & Brewery
The family behind this San Juan Capistrano craft barbecue restaurant will open their second location by the end of the year in Oceanside, where co-owner and pitmaster Daniel Castillo has recently moved with his family. The nearly 10,000-square-foot space will serve Texas-style barbecue including smoked brisket, house-made sausage and ribs, and specialty items such as brisket banh mi, pastrami tortas, chips and queso, chili fries, smoked burgers and Texas fold-overs. 2002 S. Coast Highway, Oceanside. heritagecraftbbq.com (Kragen)
Michael Price contributed to this story.