San Diego Union-Tribune

TROPICAL PARADISE IN A DESERT BACKYARD

Horticultu­rist creates rare-fruit garden and lasting legacy in Arizona

- BY DAVID BLAKEMAN Blakeman is a freelance writer. This article first appeared in The New York Times.

Jane Falkenstei­n’s house looks like any other single-family home in the Salt River Valley of Arizona — beige stucco, gravel lawn, a two-car garage, a shaggy palm tree.

The path to her front door gives the first indication that her home is something special. A mature plumeria tree with dozens of fragrant yellow and white flowers wraps around the walkway. Her open windows emit the sounds of squawking birds, which carry clear to the end of the cul-de-sac. Above her doorbell is a stained-glass window that depicts a green Amazon parrot.

These eccentrici­ties portend, though hardly prepare a visitor for, the small miracle tucked away in Falkenstei­n’s backyard — a dense jungle of rare Latin American and Asian fruit trees in one of the hottest and most arid urban environmen­ts in North America.

The architect of this backyard ecosystem was her husband, Dr. Alois Falkenstei­n Jr., a German immigrant, U.S. Air Force veteran and ophthalmol­ogist who began cultivatin­g fruit plants that most Arizonans had never tasted. His harvests included jabuticaba berries, longans, loquat plums, pluerries, white sapotes, Keitt mangoes, finger limes, doughnut peaches, bergamot oranges and Fujian Bai Mi figs, a species known colloquial­ly as Nixon peace figs after Mao Zedong gave cuttings of the plant as a peace offering during the president’s trip to China in 1972.

Alois Falkenstei­n, who died in 2015 at age 68, was fluent in German and could read and write in several languages, said Jane Falkenstei­n, 73, adding that these skills proved useful in his work as an in-flight physician and a translator for diplomats.

In his free time, Dr. Al, as he was known, studied plants. “He wrote numerous articles about gibberelli­c acid and the growth patterns of fruit plants,” she said. “He was a curious person and a quick learner.”

Falkenstei­n broke ground on his backyard garden when the couple moved into the house in 1981; he was frustrated with the lack of tropical fruit in nearby grocery stores. Years later, he traveled to San Diego with his sons, Alexander and Chris, to research tropical fruit species over three-day weekends.

“My brother and I knew these trips weren’t meant to be fancy — they were meant to teach us things,” recalled Alexander, 34. “He would take us to museums and gardeners’ homes. He would talk to rare fruit growers about their favorite books and ideas. I could tell that there was a lot of mutual respect and admiration there.”

These trips enabled Falkenstei­n to transport dozens of plant cuttings back to the desert for propagatio­n, and to apply his friends’ collective knowledge to his fledgling garden. Bit by bit, he transforme­d the barren dirt into a tropical microclima­te. He built rows of shaded trellises, a chicken coop, a tool shed and a large greenhouse

that his friends jokingly referred to as his “shop of horrors.”

The greenhouse was his laboratory and staging ground, a carefully maintained space for the delicate process of raising tropical plants in the desert. Many of these plant varieties were the progeny of his frustratin­g, pre-Internet experiment­s in cross-pollinatio­n. When his dragon-fruit flowers opened up for the evening, he would put on a headlamp, retrieve one of his pollen containers from the freezer and meticulous­ly pollinate his most resilient plants with a cotton swab.

His experiment­s in the greenhouse resulted in the creation of several hybrid plant varieties uniquely adapted to life in the desert. He gave one of the resulting dragon-fruit varieties Alexander’s childhood nickname, Falco.

“When people asked me what my husband did, I would tell them he was a horticultu­ralist,” Jane Falkenstei­n said. “I never said that

he was an ophthalmol­ogist, because he was very dedicated to his garden. It wasn’t his profession, but it was his love.”

In 2008, Falkenstei­n was diagnosed with cancer and told he had 18 months left. He lived for seven more years. A few days after his death, Alexander took over as caretaker of the garden, giving himself a year to figure out what to do with the yard.

“I knew that if we didn’t invest some time into maintenanc­e and strategy, the problem was going to grow exponentia­lly,” he said. Working in the garden three days a week, he quickly realized that he knew little about the art and science of rare fruit cultivatio­n. Many plants in the garden required considerab­le attention. Shade and frequent pruning were a must. Freezing winter nights also presented a substantia­l challenge.

Alexander Falkenstei­n turned to the Arizona Rare Fruit Growers, a group of amateur pomologist­s

that his father helped found in 1995. As of January, the group had more than 5,000 fans on Facebook; it regularly hosts events like “Mulberry Taste-Off !” and “What R U Growing, and How To Propagate More!” Many of its senior members have fond memories of Falkenstei­n’s technical approach to the hobby, and his gifts of fruit and plant cuttings.

For many rare fruit enthusiast­s in the Phoenix area in the 1980s and ’90s, Falkenstei­n was the first to demonstrat­e that it was possible to grow these incredible plants in the desert.

“It was as natural as breathing for him,” said Ruth Ann Showalter, a longtime member of the growers’ organizati­on. “He was a great teacher, and the group isn’t the same without him.”

In many ways, Alexander Falkenstei­n picked up where his father left off. He visits rare fruit growers at their homes and has a rare-fruit garden of his own with mango, banana, loquat, peach and citron trees. He gives away all of the fruit and shares what he has learned at growers’ meetings.

“The objective is to share all of this knowledge and fruit,” he said. “The strategy is to grow things that I really enjoy so I can keep it all going.” (He recently gave several mangoes to the Phoenix Suns’ executive chef, Brendan Ayers, who used the fruit to make salsa for the team.)

Like many rare-fruit growers in the Salt River Valley, Falkenstei­n fears that worsening drought conditions will force them to change their approach.

“We try to minimize water loss by ensuring that our soil is healthy,” he said, adding that he has removed plants that require more water, including his father’s banana trees. “We use a lot of mulch and wood chips, which can lead to a 30 to 50 percent reduction in water needs.”

He tries to be realistic about his gardening — there is only so much he can do to keep the plants alive and to keep the yard manageable for his mother.

In many ways, his efforts are a continuati­on of his father’s work. “My father had a great reputation that he earned over a lifetime,” he said. “If he were alive today, I think he would be proud of how much his generosity lives on.”

 ?? DAVID BLAKEMAN PHOTOS VIA NYT ?? Alexander Falkenstei­n prunes a tree in the Mesa, Ariz., garden his father created. The ophthalmol­ogist Alois Falkenstei­n spent decades breeding and cultivatin­g rare fruits in the arid desert.
DAVID BLAKEMAN PHOTOS VIA NYT Alexander Falkenstei­n prunes a tree in the Mesa, Ariz., garden his father created. The ophthalmol­ogist Alois Falkenstei­n spent decades breeding and cultivatin­g rare fruits in the arid desert.
 ?? ?? The funeral program for Dr. Alois Falkenstei­n, who died of cancer in 2015, is surrounded by a montage of photos of plants that he cultivated in his backyard in Mesa, Ariz.
The funeral program for Dr. Alois Falkenstei­n, who died of cancer in 2015, is surrounded by a montage of photos of plants that he cultivated in his backyard in Mesa, Ariz.
 ?? ?? Keitt mangoes, a cultivar that originated in Florida, still grow in the Falkenstei­ns’ Mesa, Ariz., backyard.
Keitt mangoes, a cultivar that originated in Florida, still grow in the Falkenstei­ns’ Mesa, Ariz., backyard.

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