Fruity Ice Cream Sodas

Using homemade berry or cherry syrup adds a colorful, fruity take on the usual chocolate or vanilla ice cream soda. Feel free to play with the different combinations of syrup and ice cream. Some great ones include chocolate ice cream or fudge ripple ice cream with cherry syrup; salted caramel ice cream with blackberry syrup; and vanilla or strawberry ice cream with raspberry syrup. A froth of whipped cream on top makes them even more ethereal.

Makes 4 servings

FOR THE BERRY SYRUP: 20 ounces/567 grams (about 4 to 5 cups) fresh or frozen berries or cherries (pitted sweet cherries, raspberries, blackberries or blueberries) 3⁄4 to 1 cup granulated sugar 1 to 3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice or balsamic vinegar, more to taste

FOR ASSEMBLY:

1 to 2 liters plain seltzer 1 to 2 pints ice cream Whipped cream (optional)

In a large saucepan, heat berries (or cherries) and sugar over medium heat (use 3⁄4 cup sugar for cherries or blueberries, and 1 cup for raspberries or blackberries). Bring to a simmer and let cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the syrup is thick and the fruit has begun to fall apart. Use a fork or potato masher to mash the fruit thoroughly.

Place a fine sieve over a bowl and strain the syrup, using a flexible spatula to push the puree through the sieve. Stir in lemon juice (or vinegar), starting with a teaspoon and adding more to taste. The syrup should be tangy-sweet.

Fill the bottoms of 4 tall glasses with syrup and stir in seltzer until the glass is two-thirds of the way full. Add scoops of ice cream to fill the glass, stir and top with whipped cream, if using. Serve immediately with a straw.