San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)
RIVERS AND ISLANDS OFFER MORE TO DO IN NATURE THAN HUNTING AND FISHING.
The Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta, an intricate network of about 1,000 miles of waterways, canals and sloughs that connects the Sierra Nevada watershed with San Francisco Bay, flies under the radar with many Californians. It’s a dreamland for boaters, birders and outdoors enthusiasts. Its quiet waters provide ideal habitat for migratory birds in fall, with more than 200 species, including swans and sandhill cranes, passing through. But wildlife spotting isn’t limited to birds; fall is also a great time to view tule elk and river otters in the region. Fishing folk flock here to try their luck with striped bass and catfish, and boaters bring all manner of craft — from self-propelled to speed demons. There are 62 named islands in the delta, and hundreds of smaller ones go without names. Fall is a perfect time to get to know three of them.
Brannan Island State Recreation Area
Fall and winter bring fewer crowds to the Brannan Island State Recreation Area (www.parks.ca.gov/ ?page_id=487), but the slower pace gives visitors more room to enjoy the 336 acres bordered by the Sacramento River, Three Mile Slough and Seven Mile Slough. This is the gateway to the hundreds of miles of rivers, sloughs, marshes, levees and river channels that make up the Sacramento-San Joaquin River Delta.
Some of the best fishing opportunities are at this slower time of year, and your catch may include striped bass, sturgeon, catfish, bluegill, perch or bullhead. Take advantage of the fishing pier in the day-use area across from Twitchell Island for an easy way to reel in dinner without a boat.
If your outdoor pursuits lean more toward other water-oriented recreation, a 10-lane boat ramp gives boaters an easy way onto the water, and the day-use area has a swim beach. Launch your kayak or stand-up paddleboard, go windsurfing when the breeze blows, or wander along the loop trail to spy a diverse collection of birds — including Swainson’s hawks and sandhill cranes — that overwinter and migrate or breed in the delta. More than 140 campsites suitable for RVs and tents are available for those who want to take their time here instead of day-tripping from the Bay Area.
Browns Island Regional Preserve
This 595-acre, tidal marsh island near Pittsburg is just west of the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, and because Browns Island (www.ebparks.org/ parks/browns_island/de fault.htm) is the home of rare and endangered plant species (including Suisun Marsh aster, delta tule pea and Mason’s lilaeopsis), access is restricted by arrangement only. It’s also an important home base for nesting waterfowl.
One way to get a close look at Browns Island is by taking a kayak tour with Delta Kayak Adventures (www.deltakayakadven tures.com). The three-hour excursions ($69) from Antioch cross New York Slough and explore the channels and sloughs that surround the small island — including Crooked Slough, which nearly cuts the island in half and ends in a shallow lake. That’s where you can linger in serenity, surrounded by the sound of birdsong and the water lapping at your boat’s hull, and still be close to the high-speed life of the Bay Area.
Because the total trip distance is about 8 miles, some previous paddling experience is suggested. Bring your camera, because you never know what you’ll see.
Grizzly Island Wildlife Area
Wilderness isn’t known for having a lot of amenities, and those headed to Grizzly Island are most likely birding, fishing or hunting. The Grizzly Island Wildlife Area (www.wildlife.ca.gov/Lands/ Places-to-Visit/Grizzly-Is land-WA) is approximately 12,900 acres of 10 distinct land parcels, many of which are not connected. From August through January, the Grizzly Island Unit closes for hunting, but visitors can still get maps and bird lists from the Headquarters Office.
In fall and winter, head to the Peytonia Slough Ecological Reserve (www.wildlife.ca. gov/Lands/Places-to -Visit/Peytonia-Slough-ER) for bird watching. The opportunity to view waterfowl here is at its peak, and as many as 250,000 ducks color the marshes with their vivid plumage and courtship displays. There’s also a fishing pier and boat ramp available to visitors. At Hill Slough Wildlife Area (www.wildlife. ca.gov/Lands/Places-to -Visit/Hill-Slough-WA), additional flooding attracts about 30,000 waterfowl — from mallard to northern pintail, American wigeon to ring-necked pheasant. Nearby Rush Ranch (www.rushranch.net) open space has three trails open to the public for exploration. An operating cattle ranch founded in the mid-1800s by Hiram Rush, the open space also has historic elements of the ranch on display. Wander through the old farm equipment graveyard, visit the old blacksmith shop, or have a peek at the native plant garden to get a glimpse into ranch life.