Marlena

The pandemic may have shaped Serena Chow and David Fisher’s forthcoming San Francisco restaurant, Marlena, in terms of service, but the project’s culinary approach — using finedining techniques to create affordable comfort food — has been set in stone for more than a year. Chow and Fisher are opening Marlena in the former Hillside Supper Club space in the city’s Bernal Heights neighborhood, and due to its proximity to Precita Park, their opening menu will focus on picnic baskets loaded with multiple items, including sandwiches and hand pies, for about $40. Among the more ambitious menu options is a pork collar that the duo plans to cook sous vide, then finish over binchotan coals. Fat from the pork will be used to create a glaze for the meat, and because of the smokiness given to the meat from the coals, Fisher and Chow say the dish will be reminiscent of Southern barbecue, but with more intense flavor. Marlena will also offer compact baskets for two with cheese, housemade charcuterie, crackers and fresh fruit for $25. — J.P.

Opening: midSeptember. 300 Precita Ave., San Francisco. www.marlenarestaurant.com

Stephanie Kiss New York strip with brassicas and mustard at Marlena restaurant in Bernal Heights.