San Francisco Chronicle - (Sunday)

3 Instagram pastries you need to try now

Cottage industry of eclectic eclairs, flaky Jamaican patties and delicious pies is booming

- By Soleil Ho

One day in August, I woke up and opened my fridge to find it looking not unlike a bakery cooler, filled with boxes on boxes of shiny eclairs, hand pies, cheesecake­s, fat wedges of crunch cake and cookies. And I didn’t get any of it from a store. Rather, I fell prey to the insistent call of FOMO and couldn’t bear to let another beautiful pastry dash by my Instagram timeline without ordering one to try.

I don’t eat that much dessert in my normal life; I maybe down a slice of cake once every few months. But as my refrigerat­or filled with saccharine gold, I realized what generation­s of home bakers before me already knew: baked goods are perfect for sharing with loved ones and neighbors. The act of slipping a friend an eclair out of the blue makes everybody feel good, and we all need a little extra dopamine these days. So I kept ordering and kept distributi­ng the wealth, accompanie­d by grateful, socially distanced waves.

During the pandemic, when many culinary profession­als have found themselves laid off or with extra time on their hands, cottage industry businesses selling homecooked food have flourished. We’ve already covered a few at The Chronicle, too — our new restaurant/food project roundup includes cult hit Basuku Cheesecake­s, which continuall­y sells out online at a supersonic pace, and pastry chef Angela Pinkerton’s Pie Society popup.

I’ve tried about a dozen of the current class of homecooked baked goods, which are largely found online. Like many of their nonpastry compatriot­s, these bakers are operating on the margins of the industry, unable to get completely aboveboard due to a stalled permitting process that has only become more urgent with the pandemic.

But some of the goods showed that legality isn’t a prerequisi­te for restaurant­level quality, and for me, their profession­al food world background­s instilled a level of trust on their cleanlines­s standards. The following three enterprise­s stood out as ones you shouldn’t miss — delivering on Americanst­yle pies featuring seasonal fruits, fine diningqual­ity French patisserie and veganfrien­dly Jamaican patties. Here’s what to try and how to order.

 ?? Soleil Ho / The Chronicle ?? Mango and matcha eclairs from Tartes de Feybesse.
Soleil Ho / The Chronicle Mango and matcha eclairs from Tartes de Feybesse.
 ?? Soleil Ho / The Chronicle ?? A beef and cheese patty from Tasty Tings.
Soleil Ho / The Chronicle A beef and cheese patty from Tasty Tings.

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