Coffee Pots de Crème

Serves 6 to 8

“Six California Kitchens” is full of dessert recipes from Sally Schmitt, who prepared a nightly sweet at the French Laundry. These smooth coffee custards, which she preferred over the more common chocolate variety, were a favorite of her children and grandchildren scouring the fridge for leftovers.

2 cups half-and-half

3 tablespoons instant espresso coffee

1 cinnamon stick

½ cup egg yolks (from about 6 eggs)

½ cup sugar

Softly whipped cream, for serving

Chocolate-covered coffee beans or chocolate curls, for serving

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, scald half-and-half, instant espresso and cinnamon stick. Remove from the heat.

In a medium bowl, beat egg yolks and sugar gently to avoid having too much foam.

Add the hot half-and-half mixture slowly to the bowl in a thin stream, stirring constantly. Strain the mixture into a large heatproof measuring cup. Fill 6 to 8 ramekins or espresso cups and place in a baking or roasting pan.

Pour enough hot tap water into the pan to come about two-thirds up the sides of the ramekins. (Don’t pour in too much water because the ramekins will be difficult to lift out when they’re hot.) Bake until the custard is barely set, 30 to 50 minutes depending on how warm the mixture was to start. It should jiggle in the middle.

Let cool a little, and then lift the ramekins out of the pan, using a jar lifter if they’re still too hot. Then cool before serving, or refrigerate.

To serve, top each serving with a spoonful of softly whipped cream and chocolate-covered coffee beans or chocolate curls.